Friday


27
Jun 25

Across from the Matterhorn

We walked from our hotel through Zermatt, 5,310 feet elevation. We boarded a train to go up. Up to the Gornergrat ridge, which sits 10,285 feet above sea level. There are two stops, and then you’re there, at the top of the world, it seems like, except for what you can see opposite.

It ain’t bad.

The high mark, of course, is the iconic Matterhorn summit, just over there.

Mountains, being great skewers of time and space and distance, are always misleading. The Matterhorn is actually six miles from where we are standing.

Here’s a broader view of the view. This is a panoramic shot of sorts, so you know what to do.

(Click to embiggen.)

And here’s a slightly better closeup. Doesn’t look like anyone is climbing it today. At least on this side.

Tomorrow, Europe’s highest open-air theater (really, a flat spot with a screen and several rows of chairs, which we passed on the way up) is opening for the season and they are showing “The Matterhorn Story,” a play that depicts the first ascent of the mountain, in 1865. It debuts tomorrow. We’ll be gone by then.

Where we were today was above the tree line. But there were a few things growing that high up.

Oddly, I didn’t have most of the same thin air effects I was complaining about on our visit to Jungfraujoch. I must have acclimated in the last 48 hours.

(I did not.)

Way up there is a humble little chapel, dedicated to St. Bernard — patron saint of the Alps, skiing, snowboarding, hiking, backpacking, and mountaineering, if you go in for that sort of thing.

I’m not Catholic, but I’d like to find out how a person who lived in the 11th century and canonized in the 17th century picks up snowboarding as something to protect. Snowboarding just dates back to 1965, after all.

Anyway, the altarpiece is carved wooden figures in a relief-style with alpine flowers above the altarpiece. The tabernacle is decorated with grapevines, the altar table is made of stone slabs with a cross.

There’s also a little hotel and restaurant and gift shop up there. A development waiting for other developments, unless it’s a one-night novelty, I’m sure. As a guest, your options are the views, the observatory, two short tourist experiences and going back down the mountain. One of the tourist things is a beautiful 10-minute movie that shows you the four seasons on the mountain. The other is a three-minute VR presentation of paragliding over the Matterhorn. We’ve seen people doing this all over, and made jokes with the in-laws about getting them in one of those rigs.

We got close.

I sat in one of those chairs, too. (Not pictured.) I joined the flight in-progress, so I went through it again, just to see everything. It was shot on a nice 270 degree camera, so you can see a great deal. Almost just like doing it! I was hoping my mother-in-law would stick her arms out and soar through the sky …

There’s also a nice display of a first-generation engine at the Gornergrat summit. (There are two others a bit further down, as well.) These are historic and legendary pieces of the Swiss railway system — albeit “reinterpreted” for their installment in 2023. The signs don’t tells us what was reinterpreted, but I’d like to think they looked exactly like this when they first took on their job of going up and down the mountain in 1898, when they opened this system. Today, it is the oldest, still-operational, electrical cogwheel in the world.

Even still, these engines had a shorter trek than their modern descendants. The original rail station was about 230 lower than today’s peak spot. Regular folks did the walk. Others, of means, were carried up in sedan chairs.

Hopefully they felt self-conscious about that.

Mark Twain said “Nowhere is there such a display of grandeur and beauty as can be seen from the Gornergrat summit,” but he got up there some other way. He wrote that in 1878, before this railway was completed, which wasn’t too long after the place started appearing in the travel guides (1856) and topographical maps (1862).

Cogwheel rails work on a rack and pinion system, which allows them to shorten the distance by mastering steep inclines. Static friction of the wheels provide the propulsion. The part in between the rails is the key, and in this case a setup like this handles inclines, the sign says, of 200 percent. Carl Roman Abt was the engineer that developed this setup, which has some clever ingenuity in design and reusability.

This is how it all connects together. It’s powered by a 275 volt three-phase current. TO save power, the engines act as generators when braking, so when it is descending, the engine is producing electricity. Recuperation allows that energy to be used on the next ascent. Today, three trains going downhill produce enough power for two trains heading up. (There are two trains an hour up here, too.) The rest of the power comes from Zermatt’s power grid.

If you look closely, you can see the teeth from the cogwheel system here. Since its earliest days, this has been an electrical system. The only steam engine that ran on these lines was the locomotive that helped in the construction. When it’s task was completed, they sold the thing to Spain.

Twelve photos, a history lesson and 900-plus words, so let’s call it here. In the next post, I’ll share some video from the Gornergrat summit. Don’t miss it.


20
Jun 25

On the rail again

Up early this morning for a small Italian breakfast, then a short walk to an Italian train station — most of Italy’s transit workers are on strike, we found out two or three days ago and got lucky with a backup plan. Our route looked like this.

We arrived in Interlaken, as planned, in what is almost the center of Switzerland. Definitely it is one of the tourist centers. And who could blame the tourists for coming to places with views like this?

And that’s just on the way there.

After a quick bus ride we arrived at our hotel — a small little place run by a kind, small man and his family, with Swiss efficiency. There are maybe 16 rooms. This is the balcony view we’ll enjoy (but not slow down enough to see often) for the next few days. That view is not bad.

Click to embiggen.

If you just look down at the water, it is awfully inviting in the middle of this heat wave.

We took a ride back into Interlaken for dinner. And by “we,” I mean my lovely bride and her parents. This is an in-laws trip, which I don’t think I’ve mentioned. Here they all are after dinner.

A few years back, 2019 in fact, we decided we should take a trip, and this year we were able to do it. And now here we are, in beautiful Switzerland.

Tomorrow, we go up a mountain.


13
Jun 25

I do not know how to pronounce ‘paraskevidekatriaphobic’

An utterly unremarkable day. Some might say forgettable, if they knew of it, thought of it, could recall it. That’s what you want for a Friday, sometimes, and that’s what the universe called for and that’s what I received. I spent the day counting days until other days. What even is that?

It was fair, with a high in the low 80s. Entirely unremarkable. Unremarked upon. The sort that you don’t acknowledge because there will be another like it the next day, and the next day, the the following day.

We will have at least three days of unseasonably cool temperatures and overcast skies to mark our entry into mid-June. Fits the mood, I guess.

I didn’t even realize it was the 13th, and a Friday, until late in the day. Well, problems dodged. Not that I’m paraskevidekatriaphobic — though I might be a little afraid of people who are afraid of Friday the 13th. It says something about the power of suggestion, and, well, the power of learned things.

It’s a learned thing, I just learned. In China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, Japan, Korea, and Vietnam, some people are wary of the number four, tetraphobia. In Italy, it’s 17, heptadecaphobia, owing to the way the Roman numberals can be moved around. In Afghanistan, the number 39 is a concern. That’s triakontenneaphobia.

Anyway, not much transpired today. I read. I wrote. I read. I petted cats. I put off until tomorrow, or the next day, and so on.

Here’s something productive, I today considered buying a new newspaper subscription. An actual paper. Delivery and everything. Sit at the bar. Read part of the fishwrap over breakfast. Finish up at lunchtime. Scan the ads for posterity. Figure out what to do with a mounting mound of mountainous newsprint.

I’ll do that in a few weeks.

If they deliver this far out.

I am to the point where going retro would feel like an upgrade. That might sound like more to do, but think of all the time I would save by not having to click the pop over ads on a news site, or trying to avoid, or navigate through yet another paywall. I’d actually be getting time back in my life! Supporting a local news business! Wondering, each week, how my $3 per week pays their bills.

(I am aware of the model. I teach the model in a few different classes.)

Anyway, that was the day. Things are lovely. Everyone is lovely. Flowers are blooming. And they will be tomorrow, too.


6
Jun 25

Gaining light late

We were standing in the kitchen this evening, it was 6:57 p.m. We were talking about this or that and I looked into the dining room and saw the sun streaming in from one of the windows on the front of the house.

I like when the sun comes in and I just wanted to show you that.

By that time of the evening, at this time of year, the sun is starting to fall over the house across the way. We’ll soon have new neighbors there — the current hypothesis is they have children in school and are waiting to wrap up their school year and whatever else. I hope they enjoy how the sun falls on the woods behind them after a bright day.

Hopefully they’ll have bright days when they move in. This was an overcast one, until just before that time. And by overcast I mean Canada. And by Canada I mean the huge fires raging up there. It reminds me of 2023, when we moved here, when big swaths of Canada were on fire. Since we can’t blame the climate or the Anthropocene era, I guess we’ll just have to clumsily correlate that to people moving into this neighborhood.

Fortunately for Canada, no other houses around here are on the market just now.

I got dropped most droppedly. Mere miles from the house. I blame the wind. And also the nice ride I had yesterday. And that my lovely bride is riding very well right now. Anyway, this was an out and back, and it worked out to just under 20 miles, total. This is when she was coming back after turning around. My computer said I’d ridden 8.48 miles at the time. Which means that she was already almost a mile ahead of me by here.

Most droppedly.

The next shot on my phone is just an empty bit of road and field, because she flew out of the frame. And, then, the third shot was as I whipped the camera back around to my left.

Do you know how if you hold the shutter button down it’ll just keep taking pictures? The burst mode shoots something like 10 frames a second. So this was three-hundredths of a second? She’s riding very well. You’d be dropped, too.

Ehhh, I’ll catch her tomorrow. Or just hold her wheel. Or at least vainly try to do so.

Let us return now to the Re-Listening project, where we are now only seven or eight albums behind. The Re-Listening project, you might recall, is a now years-long effort to listen to all of my old CDs in the order of their acquisition. More or less that order. I’m a little out of order right now, because I mixed up the books. None of that matters. What matters is that I’m listening to music I enjoy and, for our purposes here, am padding out the site with a little more content. Videos, music, and occasionally a memory or two. These aren’t reviews, because no one cares. Anyway, just press the play button.

Anyway, let’s say it’s the summer or fall of 2002. Counting Crows fourth studio album, “Hard Candy,” was released that July. Counting Crows were, and are, a big, but my interest would wane in subsequent years. But this is still quite good. It went to number five on the charts, was certified gold in the U.S. and in three other countries besides. It was lighter, full of pop, and well received.

Anyway, the title track was the first track, and when I played this in the car recently I wondered if I had to reconsider my stance on the band.

They’re not bad. You don’t buy six records across the decades because you dislike an act. I just outgrew this one, is all.

This was the last single they released off the record, about 11 months into the album (you could do that back then). The layers of it are quite intricate and I mostly remember this as a song I played in an empty apartment which was empty because no one was there but me. I wasn’t enough to fill up the space then, so there was a lot of overwrought pop and rock music, I guess. See, outgrew it.

And despite my saying that, for me, these two deep cuts hold up very well.

Hey, we should all be so lucky as to have two or three things we did hold up after 20-plus years, right?

Anyway, the Counting Crows are still doing it, 30-some years later. They released an album, “Butter Miracle, The Complete Sweets!” just last month, and they’re touring the U.S. and Europe this summer and fall in support of it. And, if you can’t wait until they come near to you, Rick Beato recently released a well-done interview with Adam Duritz where they discuss making all of these decades of music.

The next record in this book is from a hardcore punk veteran. Only I didn’t know that at the time. There’s great percussion, and it’s singer-songerwriter pop-rock. Peter Searcy was sitting at the intersection of the Crows and the Replacements. And, if I may say so dismissively, it fits 2000 almost perfectly.

This is one of the tracks that got airplay, and probably caused me to buy the record.

This was on a small southern California punk label that shut down a few years ago. And, again, given how I have always heard this whole record it’s funny to me to think of any punk work at all. If I had to describe it I’d say it’s a high charged coffee house record.

It’s a fine little power pop solo effort. The lyrics do get a bit repetitive. Listening to it today, it feels like there’s a formula at play. Not that anyone was doing that in 2000 or anything.

Here’s the title track.

And, for me, those are the biggest thrusts of the album.

Peter Searcy has returned to groups, he’s in a power trio now called Guilty Birds, with Grant Fitch and Ben Daughtrey, two guys with serious grunge and indie and alt rock credentials. He’s also selling real estate in Georgia. I take that to mean he’s playing music for the fun and creativity of it, which sounds nice after all of these years.


30
May 25

40 hot dogs or dozens and dozens of cufflinks

Today was a bit of a low powered day. I woke up, did the morning stuff, and immediately took a nap. I woke up in time for lunch. It’s been that sort of day. Also, I’ve been nursing a mild headache.

I’ll make up for all of that this weekend. You’ll have plenty to read about on Monday, I’m sure. Or at some point next week. They can’t all be low power days.

But, hey, hastily made some more cuff links.

I have supplies to make 20 more sets of cuff links this go around.

There are two problems with this process. One of them is the hot dogs / hot dog bun problem. The math never works out. I will never, ever run out of all of the supplies at the same time. And there’s also the issue of storage. I have some nice cheap little jewelry display cases to keep this whole mess organized, but when I make these next 20, I’ll still have space for 60 more. And need a closet full of reasonable shirts for them.

Anyway, more next week, when my batteries are better charged.