adventures


2
Jun 26

And, now, down to Cape Town

Although our safari is, sadly, complete, our journey continues. Our guide, Simon, drove us to Nelspruit Airport. Along the way, when the others were sleeping, he asked us about some controversial American topics. He’s a playful guy. Inquisitive. Opinionated. But willing to listen and learn. And so we had a nice chat. We got to the airport right on time, he unloaded our luggage, we said our thank yous and goodbyes and gave him a big tip. He’d worked hard and gave us a great trip. There were times when even he, and the other two seasoned safari-goers, were amazed by what we saw. You might imagine, then, how someone who’s never been on a safari felt with this experience. Our new Taiwanese and our new Russian friend, and the two of us — and doesn’t this sound like an Agatha Christie novel now? — were suitably impressed by everything we saw. Simon said it was a terrific trip. He talked it up. But that’s sort of his job, right? Our two new English friends, who have been at this for a long time, endorsed that. So we lucked out. Or one of the four of us were a good luck charm. They all say this: the reason you go back is because every time it is different. But how could it be better?

Anyway, we’re at this airport, Nelspruit, which felt brand new, but has been around for a long time, apparently. It boasts the largest thatch roof in all of Africa. (If I’d known that at the time … ) It’s relatively small, as an airport. I asked the ticket agent where the gates where, she said “Around the corner.” And they were.

While we waited to be called I visited the restroom. I think about sinks more than anyone not in the sink designing, sink selling or sink cleaning businesses, I’m pretty sure. I have strong opinions about sinks. I do not know why either of these things are the case, but they are. And, yet, it had never occurred to me that you might have a painted sink. I loved these.

Though I’m not sure about the little bump texture feature on this one.

Most importantly, does anyone have any cool sink-shaped stencils?

At Nelspruit you walk outside to your plane. This is always fun, because you don’t get to do it that often. Also, it makes you feel like a rock star. (If only you didn’t have to wait to be called …) And you can see more of the plane, which is reassuring. Yes, all of the outside here. I will now board your miracle conveyance with confidence, trusting now that the mechanics and the pilots know their work, for the plane assembly has passed my critical eye.

Also, check out the livery on the Airlink jets.

This is the second-largest carrier within Africa by number of flights, and third-largest by number of seats. They are also feeling the fuel pinch. So glad we booked this months and months ago.

The thing we were looking forward to on Airlink is that we had heard they serve Krispy Kreme doughnuts on the plane. For some reason, Krispy Kreme is a big deal in Johannesburg — we saw several — and presumably elsewhere, if they’re serving them on the plane. I was looking forward to seeing which recipe they used, and how they tasted at altitude. (Because things taste different at altitude, look it up.)

Sadly, I do not know the answers to these questions. No doughnuts were offered. We had a local sandwich, though. It tasted differently, too. Dry air, cabin pressure, white noise, etc.

I had the window seat, and I enjoyed nice views, but a terrible thought came over me while I was looking outside. Only a few dozen people in the whole world had a chance to see this beautiful moment, and they had to be looking out the window just then to see it.

I’m not sure why that came to mind, or why the thought of it sunk so deeply into me that it went from brain to shoulders to wherever your spirit lives on your person. This plane is up here and no one else is. It has four lines of seat from fore-to-aft. Only the people on the right side, in the window, could see this, and even then only if they weren’t asleep, or distracted.

It didn’t occur to me until later that the people on the port side of the plane had the same circumstance, some incredible view that only a few people could see. And, most frustratingly, one I could never see. That didn’t come to mind until later because I spent most of my flight thinking about my first realization. And then, as we approached Cape Town, me and just a few other people in the whole wide world saw this moment.

And I think maybe this is what it is like to be confronted by chance and mortality. And also choice.

It was an easy flight. We left on time. We arrived on time. We are now down very near the bottom of South Africa. We caught an Uber (avoid the pretend Uber drivers at the airport, visitors are advised). We rode across town to our hotel. Checked-in with minimal difficulty. We had dinner at the hotel restaurant (it was pretty nice and incredibly convenient, what with being just downstairs and all). And now we are getting ready for tomorrow. Big day tomorrow.


2
Jun 26

Our last day on safari at Kruger National Park, part two

We’ve had five wondrous, lucky, inspiring, peaceful, adventuresome, thrilling, relaxing, educational, days in Kruger National Park. This is the last photo post. (But I have so, so many more photos. And videos. We’ll revisit a lot of them over time, I’m sure.) Because it was our last day I was stingy with the camera and took just 197 photos. I’ve waded through them all and selected 35 to share with you today. The previous post has some of those. This is the last of the batch. Before that, let me tell you about Wild Wings Safaris. The Yankee did the booking, but she says they were great via phone and email. Handled all the details. We had the same guide for five days in Kruger National Park. Simon picked us up at a hotel in Johannesburg, he dropped us off at an airport so we could continue our adventures. He was fun, funny, willing to share and take a joke, knowledgeable, and great at spotting all the things you would never see. He was calm and safe. A real pro. He was also our driver and cook. The man can cook. Have you ever had french toast on a kerosene grill before? I have now. He made a lot of local dishes, and everything, aside from the beets, was terrific. And he was full of good cheer. This outfit is so good that the other couple on this safari, English retirees who have been with this group before, made arrangements to do two more safaris back-to-back on this trip. They’ve been taking safaris around the world for 28 years and they are repeat customers. We’ve been charmed and thrilled at every turn. Wild Wings Safaris.

My only complaints are that I am not a better photographer, and I should have brought a longer lens.

Part of what we saw today:

African crocodile (not pictured)
Jacana
Wildebeest
Impala
Stone buck (not pictured)
Elephants
Warthogs
Terrapin
Hippos (not pictured)
Giraffes
Buffalo

Wild Wings Safaris.


2
Jun 26

Our last day on safari at Kruger National Park, part one

This was, sadly, our last day on safari. We’ve had five days, and they were all magical, wondrous, lucky, inspiring, peaceful, adventuresome, thrilling, relaxing, educational, and different. I took 197 photos today, and I thought I was selecting carefully in the editing process, but I still managed to publish 35 of them. So I’ve broke this up into two posts. But before I launch into the photos, here’s a quick plug for Wild Wings Safaris. The Yankee did the booking, but she says they were great via phone and email. We had the same guide for five days in Kruger National Park. He was fun, funny, willing to share and take a joke, knowledgeable, and great at spotting all the things you would never see. He was also our driver and cook. He lugged a bit of luggage, and he was full of good cheer. Or, if I may put it another way, the other couple on our safari (there were six people) had made arrangements to do three consecutive safaris with this company. That couple, a pair of English retirees, have been doing safaris in various places around the world for almost 30 years, they were repeat, and repeated customers. This is a good outfit. And we’ve been charmed and thrilled at every turn. Wild Wings Safaris.

Part of what we saw today:

Wild African cat (not pictured)
Lions
Secretary bird (not pictured)
Zebras
Hyena
Bachelor eagle
Ostrich (not pictured)
Elephants
Impala
Mongoose (not pictured)
Impala
Baboons

Wild Wings Safaris.


1
Jun 26

Other animals at Kruger National Park, part three of day four

After this morning’s cheetah experience, I could have called it a day. Could have called it a safari. But we were hardly done. Indeed, that was just the start of day four. (And there’s our final ride tomorrow.)

We saw a lot more, including:

Vultures (not pictured)
Jackal (not pictured) (So there was a kill nearby.)
Ostriches
Wildebeest
Rhino (not pictured)
Red crested corran (not pictured)
Kudu
Elephants
Guinea fowl
Mongoose (not pictured)
Hornbill (not pictured)
Roller
Zebra
Giant bony plated lizard (not pictured)

Pretty much all of the ones not pictured are for practical reasons. They were on the wrong side of the vehicle, the photos just weren’t good or, like the rhinoceros, they were too far away. Had the rhino been closer that would have been an equally exciting moment. At a distance, and through binoculars, we had a few nice contemplative moments considering the plight of that species, and the poachers and smugglers that are threatening them. Simon, who has been doing this sort of work for 20-plus years, says he is now charting the number of times a year he sees the rhinos. This was just his 14th encounter of the year.

This evening, we had a pleasant and peaceful ride, but it was more of a hayride than safari. The spotlights were spotty, and the conditions were not especially conducive to conventional photography. Nevertheless, we saw:

Verreaux’s Eagle Owl (backlit against the red sky) (not pictured)
Side-striped jackal (Very rare) (not pictured)
Black banned jackal (not pictured)
Common African cat (not pictured)
Large spotted genet (in the spotlight, below)
Hippos (not pictured)

Our last safari ride is tomorrow. Let’s make it a good one.


1
Jun 26

This is now a cheetah blog

In addition to the dozens of photos of the cheetah that I took and edited and shared, I also got the last 80 or so seconds of our visit on video. Here’s the last minute of that, as this beautiful creature walked up to me, made eye contact and trotted away. It was an incredible experience.

 

Still more than 250 photographs from today to go through. Watch this space.