photo


31
May 26

Kruger National Park safari, part one of day three

This is day three of five of this serving as a photo blog. And it started out with an amazing experience, but the amazing experiences just kept going throughout the day, as you will see.

Some of what we saw on our third day in Kruger National Park included:

Leopard
Lion
Waterbuck (not pictured)
Klipspringer (not pictured)
Baboon
Grand hornbill
Oxpecker (not pictured)
Burchell’s coucal
Samango monkey
Guinea fowl (not pictured)
Rhinoceros (not pictured)


30
May 26

Kruger National Park safari, part two of day two

This is day two of five of this serving as a photo blog. And today got out of hand, photographically speaking. Of the 260 photos I shot today, I have uploaded 36 (a 14 percent success rate!). Obviously that’s too many amazing images for one post, so I’ve broken it up into three. (See part one.) This is also the day I started kicking myself for not bringing a long lens. Nevertheless, this was a lovely day.

Some of what we saw on our second day in Kruger National Park included:

Lion
Impala
Zebra
Giraffe
Lilac-breasted Rollers
Burchell’s Starling
Elephants
Kudu


30
May 26

Kruger National Park safari, part one of day two

This is day two of five of this serving as a photo blog. Today got out of hand, photographically speaking. Of the 260 photos I shot today, I have uploaded 36 (a 14 percent success rate!). So I’m splitting up day two into two posts, because why not. (See part two.) This is also the day I started kicking myself for not bringing a long lens. They cost thousands of dollars, for some reason. You can rent them, but you may as well be buying them. So I don’t have a long lens, and my photos reflect that sometimes. Nevertheless, this was a lovely day.

Some of what we saw on our second day in Kruger National Park included:

Hyena (not pictured)
Giraffe
Elephant
Bateleur eagle
Cape Starling (not pictured)
Hornbill
Leopard
Saddle billed stork
Impala
Zebra
Warthog
Ostriches (not pictured)
Wildebeest
Grand hornbill


29
May 26

Kruger National Park safari, day one

We left our lovely little hotel in the financial district of Johannesburg to go to an airport hotel. At the airport hotel we were to be met by our next guide. At that hotel the cement floor in the lobby was done up as a series of airport runways. The runway numbers made no sense. I had enough time to notice this and pull out a compass and check them all and make a mental note of it, which is to say we got up too early. But soon enough our new guide, Simon, arrived. Tall, Afrikaner. Green field hat, shirt, green shorts, no shoes. He picked us, and one other guy up there. We stopped at two more places and picked up three more people. The seven of us are going on a five-day safari in Kruger National Park. So the next five days this becomes a photo blog.

On our first day we saw:

Elephants
Impala
Gabar Goshawk (not pictured)
Zebras
Wildebeest
African lap wing (not pictured)
White spoonbills (not pictured)
White egrets (not pictured)
Hippos
Lions
White faced vulture
Giraffes
Baboon (not pictured)
Hyena (not pictured)

These are all worth a scroll. It was, as you will see, a great day.


27
May 26

We took a food tour, and you have to guess where we are now

Here’s a short of lists of things that, if you have the opportunity to do, you should avoid.

If you have the opportunity to spend two nights in a row on an airplane, don’t. If you have the opportunity to be stuck on a plane when the ground power unit keeps failing, don’t. If you have the opportunity to do the above in the middle of the heat, you definitely should not.

If you have the opportunity to do that and meet the British Karen … actually do that, it is quite funny. And, look, British Karen isn’t going to get that plane flying any faster. You know that. I know that. I suspect she might know that. British Conspiracy Theory Karen might not know that. But what she can do is make the flight crew hand out extra snacks to mollify the human cargo. So thanks for that, I suppose, British Conspiracy Theory Karen. But, mostly, thanks for going quietly back to your seat when you scored the extra biscoff.

All of that is what we did last night. British Airways out of London and to points beyond. But to where? You’ve got just a little bit more time to guess, because the answer will become apparent below.

We got a bleary-eyed ride to our hotel. Honestly, I don’t remember much about it. I’ve not slept a lot on two successive airplanes and I didn’t sleep much the night before in anticipation of exhausting myself for two successive airplanes. On the way we heard a local newscast. People in the country illegally was the top story. The third story was the Senate primary in Texas. (We are in neither Texas, nor the U.S., obviously.)

We are staying just around the corner from the local stock exchange. There’s an American-style steakhouse out front. The hotel is gated. There is a private security guard. It all feels safe. Plenty of happy pedestrians are walking alongside a busy two-lane street. The hotel is nice. It is a sprawling affair. (We got turned around once, because who needs to pay attention to the desk attendant’s directions, anyway?) The hotel does not have amenities. It has experiences. The first experience was politely declining every bellhop’s offer to help. We’ve only just arrived, and we don’t yet have the local currency. We walked by two pools on the way to our room. They were small, and also cold, because winter is coming along. By this time I was the combination of tired and restless that put me close to tipping with every American dollar I had in my pocket. Just get me to a room, any room will do, so things stop spinning around me.

This evening we were picked up by a local driver who told us he spoke nine of the official languages. No idea if that was the truth, or, if so, why he’s a driver. He said there are 12 all told — they’ve recently added sign language to the list, but he hasn’t yet found a way to learn it yet, I thought about teaching him how to finger spell, but he was working, and I decided against telling him about the many dirty word tutorials on YouTube, because surely they are there. He said some of the languages were very similar. I assume this was easy for him to say, perhaps in several languages.

He delivered us to his colleague who took us on a walking tour of four nations cuisines. After the fact, I can say this: for years now I’ve had this idea of learning about food and eating the food and it is a bit like art, I am not exactly sure what I mean by that, but I’ll know it when I see it. This evening, we had food and culture and a lesson or two out of that and it is pretty close to what I’ve always been looking for. I suppose we’ll have to go on more food tours.

Tonight, we had Ghanaian, which was good. It was earth, rich, flavorful, and I will remember that as being a funny, spicy experience. (I am a spice wimp.) We tried Ethiopian, which was perhaps the best. The base of it is injera, or taita, a fermented, spongy flatbread made of teff flour. You eat it with your hands, tearing a bite of this off and using that to pick up the other parts of the food, family-style. I probably did it wrong, but the tour guide had to know that’s an occupational hazard.

I’m not a food photographer, but I would like you to know that everything on this tray was incredibly fresh and delicious. I don’t even like lentils, but those lentils were amazing. The other vegetables were freshly cut. The beef had incredible flavor. The spaghetti is there, I think, as an homage to the time that Italy tried to colonize Ethiopia and failed. The pickled beets I could do without, but it was all delicious.

We also had Nigerian, which was a bit similar to the Ghanaian, but not quite to that same level of satisfying, though I did enjoy our spicy stew sample. (This could have also just been the place we were.) It was also a bit on the spicy side. Lastly we had meat from a South African braai. The only problem is that we were full by then and we, thus, probably laid insult to the restaurant. South Africa is big on red meats. They barbecue in all seasons, and the braai has deep cultural routes in their cuisine. Also it is incredibly delicious. By the time we found this out, we’d eaten our way through three countries.

I’m going to want more of that. Fortunately, we are in South Africa for the next two weeks. I’m sure we’ll have the opportunity.