history


15
Apr 12

The River Walk

You probably can’t have San Antonio without the River Walk. It fills up with tourists at shops and bars and restaurants at night, but on Saturday morning, as The Yankee and I happily discovered, it is quiet, still and serene:

RiverWalk

There are bridges for the over the road traffic passing just overhead, but that seems about as far removed from people on the walk itself as possible. There are also pedestrian crossovers to get you to that restaurant you really want to try on the other side without having to rejoin the land of the suckers.

There are also the boats, one part tour, one part mass transit system and, sometimes, a dinner cruise. Here the passengers were learning about the historic architecture overlooking the San Antonio River:

RiverWalk

Among those trees and ducks and squirrels and ferns you can find too many people, or the feeling of a land lost. In the early morning hours only the odd mosaic are there to disturb you. One tells you that just a few feet away is a tree where a Mexican sniper hid to pick off Texan settlers.

Enjoy rounding that corner, friends.

Another mosaic, for reasons never explained, lays out the city’s interstate grid. A better one shows the modern route of the carefully controlled river. From that one you can start to figure out how all of this came together.

For if you can’t have modern San Antonio without the River Walk, you can’t have the River Walk without Bowen’s Island.

In the middle of the 19th century they called it Galveston Island, but it was technically a peninsula bordered on three sides by the river and on the fourth by an important local irrigation system. The local postmaster, John Bowen, built his home there. When he died in 1867 it turned into a beer garden, a market and what we today would probably call a recreational area. Gymnastics, picnics and religious meetings all took place there.

The Bowen family held onto the land until 1910. Developers rerouted the river, made the nearby streets longer and put to work their vision of a 10-acre site for buildings, including a hotel, the Federal Reserve Bank and commercial buildings.

None of that could have been done, perhaps, without Robert H. H. Hugman. He was the architect that had the idea to spruce up the place. His fingerprints are everywhere, as are these bronze plaques, replicating the stamp he placed on all his drawings:

RiverWalk

And so here we are today.

I don’t know if you’ve ever been to one of these restaurants where the gimmick is the waitstaff gets to treat you horribly bad. We’ve been to two locations of Dirty Dick’s. One, in Boston, because we were hungry and they sat us for lunch right away. Tonight we ate at the one on the River Walk … for much the same reason, actually.

At lunch they have perfectly good burgers. And, for whatever reason, the guy we had in Boston was relaxed and chatty with us. Meanwhile they were simply abusing other tables. This is probably good therapy for people who’ve waited tables one-shift-too-many, but I’m not sure why the customers show up.

Anyway, the dinner was OK tonight, though not as good as the lunchtime burger half a continent and almost a removed from my memory. We had a large group tonight, six adults, all people with way too much money invested in their brains, and a really sharp four-year-old.

The waitress tonight started out to give us a little grief which, I don’t know about you, but no thanks. And then it just … stopped. It was like she just noticed the child sitting with us. Oh you get the hat with the stupid insult on it, there’s no escaping that, but she was fine, left us alone, didn’t overtly scar the kid and we all pretended like we didn’t notice.

Maybe there’s a vibe some tables give off.

So the little boy, the son of two of our friends at dinner with us, gets into a dance contest with me. And he was awesome. Remind me to never do that again. The restaurant had a local band playing, and we caught maybe their first two songs, including something from the early 1960s soul era that I’ve already forgotten. I just sit in the chair and bop along a bit because the boy and I have become buddies.

I break out the classic stupid dances of our generation: the shopping cart, the sprinkler, the Q-tip, making the pizza.

The child responds with what he calls the Lighting Lawnmower. He sticks out his hands, tenses up his entire body and starts a little shimmy which soon turns into a full-on, almost violent shake. Suddenly the lawn mower image is out of control. He’s not pushing the mower, but hanging on for dear life as it runs over everything in site.

It was awesome. No one knows where he got it from and all agreed he easily won our dance competition. Even me, and I don’t mean in that “Sure, you were better than me kid” way.

At the end of the night he gave me what he called dinosaur hugs, which seem to involve choking me out, tackling me and roaring a lot. He’s a cool kid, despite his need to defeat me in light saber duels and mock finger-pistol shootouts all weekend.


14
Apr 12

My day, and a bit of recent San Antonio history

Busy conference day. I presented two papers. The first was a piece I co-authored with my pal Skye titled “In the Huddle: SCCT Analysis of NFL and Players’ Association 2011 Lockout Strategies” which looked at that particular piece of business through the Coombs’ Situational Crisis Communication Theory. In the final analysis they followed part of the model perfectly, but blew it elsewhere.

The second paper was a piece on the Colbert Super PAC, which was one part history of PACs that led to this moment, one part speculation on what Colbert was doing, where Super PACs are taking us and, finally, announcing the latest financials they’ve raised and spent. That is a lot of money.

That paper, which I co-authored with The Yankee, was well received. It won top paper honors. I got a plaque and everything. Not too shabby.

And immediately after that session I served as a respondent in another session.

How this works: someone has grouped a small handful of papers together for the researchers to discuss their examination and findings to their audience, as I did twice earlier today. Another person, the respondent, is assigned to make some larger sense of it all. The respondent’s job is often to find a common thread, but also give some feedback on the papers, deliver some helpful criticism as they continue their research and so on.

I was asked to be the respondent on a mass communication panel titled “‘Talking’ with the People We ‘Know’ Best: Traditional Interaction as it Happens Online.” (Academics aren’t known for riveting titles.) I had four fine papers to read, which makes being a respondent enjoyable. You read things beyond your area and, if you are conscientious about it, you find yourself working hard to make your actual response worthwhile.

It takes some time and sometimes a bit of trepidation. One of those papers I knew nothing about when I started reading. The nice person that wrote it is the expert. What can I say to that person? But eventually you find something. No study is perfect and all that.

And this might be a first: the timekeeper flashed me a one-minute sign. Not sure I’ve ever seen a respondent threaten to go over the allotted time before.

I hope it was at least a little bit worth it to the researchers.

This is Schilo’s:

Schilo's

Pronounce it “She-Lows.”

This is one of those downtown dining institutions. I’d had lunch there two days in a row. Yesterday it was the Wienerschnitzel of breaded pork and a side of red cabbage. Today I had the Friday special, which was a deliciously salty roast beef with mashed potatoes and green beans.

(UPDATE: The next day, Saturday, we returned for breakfast. I had the potato pancakes, which were not the best potato pancakes I’ve ever had by any measure. But the lunches? Oh they know their lunches.)

A man named Fritz Schilo opened a saloon 90 miles away in Beeville, Texas just after the turn of the 20th century. In 1914 he packed up his family and moved his booze joint to San Antonio. Three years later: Prohibition.

So the saloon business dried up. He opened a restaurant. His wife made the food for a location not too far away from this one. He moved next door in 1927, and Fritz Schilo stayed on through the first part of the Depression, until he died in 1935. His son, Edgar, took over and in 1942, during another war, they moved to the current location. You wonder if the family, before they sold the business sometime after the war, ever measured big personal events around big international events.

You’d think, from the perspective of history, everyone did. But do we? Aside from the occasional “Where were you when?” moment, probably not. Still, that Prohibition timing was pretty rough on ol’ Fritz.

A bit more local history, John Wayne stayed at our hotel twice during premieres of two separate movies. He charmed them so well the second time they named a suite after him:

JohnWayne

And here’s the man John Wayne wished he could have been. That’s Audie Murphy, second from the right:

AudieMurphy

The man next to him, unknown to whomever wrote the caption below the picture on display in the hotel lobby, looks positively beside himself with nausea. You would, too, if you were taking a picture with Murphy. If you don’t know what that’s about, you should do a little reading.

(UPDATE: The guy on the far right might be Harold Russell a World War II veteran who is one of only two non-professional actors to win an Oscar for his acting in The Best Years of Our Life. Russell had an amazing life.)

The hotel itself is lovely, in the lobby. The rooms are a bit shabby for the $160 rate they’re asking from conference-goers. We got a slightly better rate. The joke of the conference has been “What broke in your room this morning?” Oh, roughly everything. We’ll see about those rates again later this weekend.

Oh? The Alamo? Everyone says it is smaller than you’d think. And there’s no basement.


12
Apr 12

Signs of downtown San Antonio

Took part in a roundtable panel on the presidential primary season. I made a great Rick Perry joke.

“There were a couple of problems there. The back surgery, the painkillers and … well … I forget the other one.”

Brought down the house. If anyone remembers anything I said on that panel, it won’t be the analysis but the joke.

We got the chance to walk around downtown a bit. Here are a few signs from the area:

Aztec

The Aztec opened in 1926. It cost $1.25 million, which would be something like $22.6 million today. You wonder what the owner thought a few years later when the Depression landed on him:

In response to competition from other theatres, a magnificent chandelier was commissioned and installed, in only 35 days, in the main lobby in 1929. Weighing over 2,000 pounds, this ornate, 2 story, 12 foot in diameter fixture was billed as “The largest chandelier in the largest state in the Union”.

This says something about the barber, or the client, or both:

barber

We were trying to resolve the mystery when we noticed they also had a foosball table inside.

This sign isn’t old, but I love it like it was creaking from decades in the sun and wind:

Walgreens

This isn’t a sign, but I would like to point out that this is the level of ornamentation they’ve put into a parking garage:

deco

This theatre, The Texas, competed with The Aztec:

Texas

Also built in 1926, in the Spanish Colonial and Rococo style, it cost $2 million. It closed in the 1970s and was razed a few years later. The facade, though, lives on as part of an office building. (More here and here and here.)

I love this, because it is a neon sign evocative of one of my favorite songs:

Howl

Today we had lunch at a place I’ll write about tomorrow. We had dinner on the River Walk, the touristy part. The enchiladas were good, though.

And now I must return to my notes. I have three panel sessions to participate in tomorrow.


1
Apr 12

Catching up

The old romantic edition.

Just one piece today. This is the story of an old couple who met in letters during World War II through common friends. He was shipped to Europe and Africa. He saw Algeria, Belgium, France and Germany. When he came home after the war, which is where this telling picks up, they finally met and married almost immediately:

I recorded the audio on my iPhone using an app that seems to stop recording when the screen goes to sleep. Learned that lesson the hard way. (Moral: Never learn these lessons the hard way.)

There were too many people in the room. Too much noise outside. I had to tweak and tweak and tweak to get the levels to be close to comparable in Soundbooth. Since I couldn’t get it right at the scene I have failed them as an audiophile. The many shortcomings are mine, but their story is lovely.


31
Mar 12

A story about life, memories of the dead

On a beautiful, warm day in a quiet little unincorporated community to the northwest of Atlanta they gather to remember a horrifically stormy day 35 years ago. It would be the last, fatal flight of Southern 242.

It is thought to be one of the largest and longest running survivor group memorials of its kind. The older gentleman there is running the show. He’s a local boy, growing up literally just down the road from this place in a time when the only thing modern eyes would recognize was the cemetery. When he was a boy the church across the street was different. There were two sawmills, a log cabin school and a general store his family ran.

This place was important because it is a crossroads, but then this place had always been important. The place and the people there grew up knowing about loss and tragic death. Long before even the old man was born this was the site of one of the last battles before Sherman marched on Atlanta. More than 2,000 soldiers died only a stone’s throw away from this place.

But on this day they gathered to recall something that “seems like only a few months ago.”

marker

marker

A violent storm, part of a system that killed at least two dozen in Alabama, knocked a plane out of the sky. In the official analysis there was a long list of problems. The weather report was outdated. The storm rendered the plane’s weather radar useless. The pilot, an Army Air Corps veteran, reported baseball-sized hail cracked his cockpit windows. A bad command from air traffic contributed to ruining the plane’s engines. The pilots made a costly detour. Finally the DC-9, with 85 souls on board, was reduced to a glider for seven minutes. They would try to land on this sleepy road in rural Georgia.

It doesn’t look much like it did back then, the old man tells you. The intersection of the vital crossroad has been reshaped. There was a bit of a commercial boom at the turn of the century bringing in pharmacies, a grocery store and other strip mall inhabitants. In the 1970s it was just this road, that school, a gas station and the barbecue restaurant.

The pilots of the plane found this long stretch of road and hoped for the best. The co-pilot was a naval aviator. He’d put fighter planes on the pitching deck of blacked out aircraft carriers in the South China Sea, but this was a different kind of challenge. He got the plane on the road, with the wheels on the center line as the locals recall, but his wings clipped power poles, a fence and trees. The plane careened out of control. It crushed a car with seven people — three mothers and their four children, in an instant, a family lost two daughters and all of their grandchildren — and killed two other locals. The fuselage sliced through the gas station. Then the explosions started.

It came to rest in this lady’s yard:

Sadie

Ms. Sadie had just called her children inside because of the coming storm. Now there was a fireball where her kids so often played.

Because it is a crossroads, and was even smaller back then, the emergency help had to come from all over the region. They found they could get close, but could not get to the scene because the wreck itself had damaged so much of the roadway. The community, neighbors and friends and normal folks, found themselves trying to bring order to unholy chaos. The scene looked liked this some time later:

The people at the memorial remembered how they carried people out “the back way,” meaning through Ms. Sadie’s house. The people who could walk or be carried went through her front door, out the back and through the woods at Hell Hole, where that Civil War battle was fought, and to the neighboring street.

Everyone that made it into the house survived. The locals tell stories of getting the victims out using doors as stretchers and cutting people free of their seats with their pocketknives. They recall covering bodies in curtains and sheets and finding tubs of ice and water for burn victims.

Some of the survivors that have made the trip back stand to talk, remember, thank and grieve a bit.

He was on row 19, the next-to-last row of seats on the plane. He was an 18-year-old soldier when the plane crashed. Now he works in Customs. He’s got a wife, a young daughter intent on picking every flower at the cemetery where this memorial is held and a story to tell:

They all do. Twenty-two people on the plane lived, but their numbers are starting to dwindle. There were Guardsmen, lawyers and homemakers. At least three of the survivors died recently. One of whom survived near-fatal injuries in World War II and this crash and died just last year, at 86. Another survivor was also a World War II veteran who worked in forestry and construction. He lost a leg in the crash, but it never kept him off his motorcycle. He died last year at 96. Another had been in and out of hospitals every year since the crash, but she raised a huge family, too. She died last year at 71, leaving 17 grandchildren and seven great-grandchildren. Her family asked for memorial donations to be made to the burn unit in Atlanta that treated her decades ago.

At least two books have been written about the disaster. One by one of the flight attendants, who began helping train the airline liaison officers who work with the families of crash victims and survivors.

“Nobody should have to go through that alone,” she said.

Back then, they say, people were just told to return to their lives. Even the locals who ran toward the smell of smoke and the crackle of the flames found that a difficult task. One man said he didn’t eat for a week. Another said he could only eat in darkness for a long time after the accident. Another man who dug through the debris didn’t sleep for days. There didn’t seem to be much of a normal thing to return to for a long while. It would be a long time before they could hear the sound of a plane and not look up.

But in grief there is joy. In pain, there is growth. The flight attendant marvels at how they found themselves in a place called “New Hope … New … Hope.”

The survivors single her out as a hero. All of 24 years old at the time, she’s struggled with that day for years, but on this point she is adamant: New Hope.

The people of the community who remember that day understand her meaning in their bones. Over the years they’ve found themselves bonded with total strangers in the aftermath. That’s been part of their healing, seen in part by the Southern 242 Memorial Committee, which is raising money to install a proper memorial.

The people there learned firsthand how things like this change a person, can change an entire community. One man worked at a bank at the time. He’s now a preacher. Another worked on the railroad. He now owns an ambulance company. The local pharmacist changed careers and became a doctor after tending to the injured. One of the survivors from the plane crash left the budding software industry and devoted his life to counseling.

The lady that found a plane in her yard raised her kids and, now a senior citizen, will graduate in May with her degree in psychology. Inspired by that stormy day in 1977, she’s still trying to give help and hope to others.

Now to be personal about it: my grandfather is one of the names on that plaque, just another person that had probably never even heard of New Hope. The plane crashed just a few months after I was born, so this story has always been casting ripples in our family life, but this was the first time I’ve been to the site and placed scenery with the details.

They said he was killed instantly, still just the smallest of comforts for the family of a man struck down at 42.

He was a new grandfather, but an old preacher. I have the Bible from which he gave his first sermon, at the age of 16. As a newborn I was there for one of his last sermons.

Ms. Sadie, the homeowner, has become a lifetime friend for my mother, who lost her father as she tended an infant. Ms. Sadie says they pulled his last Bible from the debris in a place where everything surrounding it had been destroyed by the flames. The book, they figured, should have been, too. But it was only scorched on the margins.

They found it opened to Psalm 23.