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18
Jun 13

Churchill War Rooms

And now we’re going to get historical and nerdy. I hope you’ll indulge me.

Today we visited the highly regarded and “You must go see” the Churchill War Rooms. Here’s the entrance, which is little more than a landing and a staircase underground. This is where Winston Churchill met with his war leaders during World War II. This was where the British ran their war from 1939 until 1945. It was reopened by Margaret Thatcher in 1984.

Generals and high ranking civilians and Royal Marines worked and lived down there. Previously it was a basement store, but was converted in 1938. Churchill’s name is on the name of the place, but he actually didn’t like it.

This is the first thing you see, is this authentic 500-pound German bomb. During 1940, in the height of the Blitz, the roof of the underground workspace was augmented with a steel-reinforced concrete layer. People in the area had no idea.

The tour is self-guided. They give you the device with the keypad and speaker and you just listen and linger at your own speed. I lingered slowly. Here is the cabinet room. They’d all meet here. That oak chair in the center back was where Churchill sat:

These rooms, with few exceptions, returned to storage after the war. But they were meticulously restored for museum purposes. Someone thought to take highly detailed photographs when the war room was still in service and the Imperial War Museums rebuilt the entire facility. It feels incredibly immersive, too.

This little room was the living quarters of Brendan Bracken, the minister of information. Bracken founded the modern Financial Times and was briefly the First Lord of the Admiralty. George Orwell worked for him. Bracken was the inspiration for Big Brother. He died of cancer in 1958.

This was Sir Edward Bridges’ room. A captain in World War I, Bridges became a senior official in the British civil service. After the war he was named Permanent Secretary to the Treasury and Head of the Home Civil Service. He was knighted in 1965 and died four years later, at 77.

Clementine Churchill, the prime minister’s wife, slept here. This feels about diagonally opposite of his room.

Other bedrooms belonged to Maj. Sir Desmond Morton (who was shot in the heart during World War I and still served, with the bullet lodged inside him), Cdr. Tommy Thompson and others. Secretaries and others working in the war rooms carried sheets with them and slept wherever they found a space.

This is an authentic map hanging in the Chiefs of Staff conference room. Note the Hitler graffiti.

Speaking of maps, try this one, which marked the battle lines. Just to the west of those white pins, about three-quarters up their path, is where my great-grandfather was wounded in the Battle of the Bulge.

Here’s the code for that map:

This map was in the map convoy room. This is the eastern seaboard section of a world map that ran the width of the room. Each day the location of Allied convoys were updated here. Note the hundreds of pinholes.

Some of the original electrical equipment:

Some of the keys that ran the joint:

Keys for these doors were there. But you don’t really know what these rooms were for. Some mysteries remain secret:

And now some kitchen shots. This is where all of the food was made for the people in the war rooms:

I went back, after our own snack lunch in the museum’s cafeteria, to take these individual shots. A group of students were working their way through. One said “I thought Churchill was rich?”

Time changes perspective on a lot of things.

Right after them came a group of six older folks. One said “We had one of those. Do you remember those?” Another, looking at this black stove, said “We had three of those. One was for the help.”

See those three stacked cans on the shelf? That was corn beef sold by Libby, McNeill & Libby, an American concern. They were founded in Chicago in the 19th century and were also canning fruits and vegetables by the time war broke out. By 1960 Libby’s had annual revenues of $296 million. As with everything, there have been corporate changes. Swift & Company sold to Seneca Foods in 1982. NestlĂ© picked it up a few years later. Then, just before the turn of the century came ConAgra to take over canned meats. The nectar side of the business was picked up by Tequesta Foods three years ago.

And they’re sitting there in the British war rooms kitchen. Corned beef in the famous trapezoidal can. That wasn’t what Churchill ate. He preferred prime rib.

Ronuk has been around since at least 1908. You can see a lot of old newspaper ads here. They are still around.

Tea? I’d just like everything to be labeled like this, please.

Bread? Not a big fan of the drop shadow font here. I wonder how authentic that is to the time. Anyone?

Whitbread started as a brewery in 1742 on the outskirts of London. They got in to coffee and then at the start of the 21st century dropped beer and pubs for the hotel and restaurant industry.

Sand. For fires and such:

A propaganda poster in one of the secretarial areas:

A scramble phone in one of the bedrooms:

This wax mannequin is manning the radio system. From here the prime minister could speak to the BBC and, thus, the world:

And here’s where Churchill delivered those speeches. This was his room and office. Supposedly the items here are authentic. When they closed the war rooms this was one of the few areas that were left untouched.

That’s Churchill’s bed. But he seldom stayed there. Hated it, remember? Had to put on the brave British front. He actually watched the London bombings from the roof above. History records that Churchill spent three nights here. And countless naps. The man loved his naps.

The man also loved his maps. Here’s a legend he kept in his room:

This clocked in at 1,000 words and 31 pictures. And there’s still more to go for the day …


18
Jun 13

Tower of London

This morning we went to see the Crown Jewels. They are in here. Unfortunately you aren’t allowed to take photographs of the shiny stones. They are, as you might imagine, a more than impressive collection.

This guy is guarding them — among a lot of other security, of course. He is a member of the Grenadier Guards, named in honor of the defeat of the Grenadiers of the French Imperial Guards at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. They started their service in the 17th century. Most recently they’ve been in the Helmand Province of Afghanistan for three separate tours.

This is the Bloody Tower, famous as a prison keep and torture site. Scottish King John Balliol, Sir Walter Raleigh, boy princes Edward IV and Richard, Anne Askew and others were held there. Or tortured there. Or died there. These were less than enlightened times. Now there’s a torture exhibit. And, nearby, a gift shop!

This bronze, nine-pounder was cast by Louis Ernest Maritz in the Netherlands in 1813 for Napoleon I. It was captured by the English at Waterloo in 1815. It was named “L’Etonnant” — The Thunderer.

This cannon was cast by Vallette in the French town of Metz in October of 1813, for Napoleon. It was named “Le Guebre” — The Fire Worshipper.

This one was also cast by Vallette in July of 1813. It was named “Le Cigne” — The Swan. The English captured a lot of guns at Waterloo.

Here’s the famous Tower Bridge. Built between 1886 and 1894, it is a combined bascule and suspension bridge. This is not the London Bridge that is falling down in singsong fashion. The bridge once opened almost 50 times a day, but now only opens about three times a day.

Our Beefeater, he gave us our tour of the Tower of London. In theory they are responsible for any prisoners in the Tower and safeguarding the British crown jewels. In reality they act as tour guides and are tourist attractions themselves. Ours was a funny guy. He told all the Americans “This could all be yours if you’d only paid your taxes!”

He also picked on me. And some Australians.

Chris Skaife is something of a celebrity as the Ravenmaster. The raven tradition dates back centuries, and are said to help safeguard the tower and the kingdom. Skaife made sure to let you know that you can follow him on Twitter.

This is the Tower Hill Memorial, a national war memorial for members of the Merchant Navy and fishing fleets. It commemorates those who died during both world wars and have “no grave but the sea.” The memorial lists 24,000 names.

And, here she is, in the famous phone booth photo. I bet no one ever does this in the States:

Later, a big museum post.


17
Jun 13

Visiting London

We landed in Heathrow after a hard night in bad airplane seats. I think I slept about two hours. I fell asleep in the last Die Hard movie. Both the movie, and the flight, were that un-good.

Heathrow Airport was lovely, as it was on my first visit there. We boarded a train into the London city center. There were no garbage cans anywhere, but it was the cleanest public transportation you’ve ever experienced.

We got off at one train stop and hopped on the Underground. It felt like we’d walked into a Roma train station in the 1970s. If you remember the 70s or any Roman train station maybe that would make sense.

We left the Underground and walked just up the street to our hotel. We got checked in. This is our view:

The guy on the street corner pretending to catch cabs was dressed to the nines. It is so cute when the British try to be British:

As cabs go, this is a sweet paint job:

We made our way up toward Picadilly Circus, where they seem to be celebrating something about the queen. Hard to put your finger on it though. But that sure is a lot of banners. And while I like patterns, repetitious banners are a bit unsettling. Nevertheless.

We went here, for high tea:

Fortnum and Mason does tea the proper way, with leaves, not bags. That means you get a fancy strainer:

Here’s a part of our tea set:

And the food that comes with high tea. Pure carbs, but I was all about calories. Travelling around the world changes more than your sleep patterns.

Of course they sell stuff at Fortnum and Mason. Who doesn’t love a good tin?

I don’t know what Tawny Port is, but it makes a nice pattern. And I like patterns:

A friend told us to be tourists and take the double decker bus tour of downtown London, that it gives you a good lay of the land. He was right. If you find yourself in London, take the bus tour. Sit on top. And sit in the back.

One of the first things we saw on the bus tour was a giant horse. And it eats people!

London has all manner of architecture. There’s something for everyone:

There are three golden divers above Coventry Street. This site says they go mostly unnoticed. I don’t see how.

Columns? London has plenty of the Greek classical influence:

You want a weather vane topped by a ship? The British call this building Eclectic Baroque. There are domes, Greek elements, flying buttresses, Egyptian influences … so … yeah.

And then there’s terrible post-modern stuff in the financial district.

And here’s the tallest building in London, the Shard, topped out in 2012 at 1,016 feet and 72 stories. It is the tallest building in the European Union and the second-tallest free-standing structure in the United Kingdom. Qatari investors run the joint. No one talks about how the top doesn’t all join together. The view is a good one.

And then there’s this thing, which should return quietly to the 1960s:

How about the buildings you know? Sure, we saw those. Here’s a glimpse of Westminster Abbey:

The Marble Arch was designed in 1825 as ceremonial entrance to the courtyard of the new Buckingham Palace. It was moved a few years later. Now it sits in a traffic island.

And a V-2 rocket attached to the side of the building. Nearby is the German flag. I wonder how that goes over.

The London Eye is the tallest Ferris wheel in Europe, and was the tallest in the world when it was built in 1999. It is still third. More than 3.5 million people ride it each year:

Look kids, Big Ben!

Here’s a bit more detail of the tower, which was completed in 1858. That’s the largest four-faced chiming clock in the world.

And the Palace of Westminster, where the House of Commons and the House of Lords meet.

From a different angle:

And a closeup of some of the detail: Check out those animal sculptures:

Here are my three favorite signs we saw today. Robertsons is, and always has been, a pawn shop. It stayed in the family until the 1960s. Suddenly you’re a lot less interested. Me too.

Scottish paper, great message on Fleet Street. It has been around since 1877:

This is the best sign anywhere, and it should be sold to fans of ale and pie. It’d be a hit.


16
Jun 13

Every day is a travel day

Our wonderful and restive cruise is over. We said goodbye to old friends and goodbye to new friends. We’d only just gotten to the point where you could relax and it was time to pack things up again. We zoned out on the beach, we ran, we swam, we ate and laughed. It was a great time.

So we woke up, had one last, hasty breakfast on board — this time overlooking exotic New Jersey — and then disembarked.

We hit the laundromat. All of those clothes had to be washed. And then repacked. We had lunch and then hustled out to the airport.

At JFK there is a sign just before the security checkpoint. It says something about how TSA does not endorse nor is sponsored by any product or organization you see in the security area. This makes no sense until you look into the tubs for your change and phones and (still!) your shoes:

tubs

The TSA remains the worst, in so many ways. My favorite example remains a story of someone I know who inadvertently took a bottle of water through security.

“Whose water is this? Whose water is this? WHOSE WATER IS THIS? Oh well … ”

At least they can unwind at Hampton.

We’re going to unwind on the plane. We’re flying all night. Tomorrow we’ll be in London.


15
Jun 13

Our last sea day

We’re on our way back to the States. Here’s the view from our veranda, look at all that deep blue:

BermudaOcean

There was a giant brunch buffet this morning to mark the end of the cruise. It was an embarrassing amount of food:

CelebritySummit

They had two chocolate fountains.

CelebritySummit

And ice sculptures everywhere.

CelebritySummit

The entertainment tonight was comedian Buzz Sutherland. He’s just been enjoying the cruise with his family and does his standup tonight. Sweet gig. And a great show. Check him out on YouTube.

BermudaOcean

There is a martini bar on board, notable for being an ice-covered bar. And, apparently, the bartenders are trick drink makers. I walked by just as a guy poured these seven drinks simultaneously out of a clutch of shakers.

I don’t know what the ship record is for this, but that guy was pretty proud of himself:

BermudaOcean

Finally, here’s the promised video of pianist Jordan Peterson. He’s playing tunes covering about a 50 year range, and he’s worth hearing:

Tomorrow we have to get off the ship.