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10
Aug 13

The Wild Bunch — on Segways

We learned how to do this today:

And then we went on a tour of the district. The guide said you steer these things with your feet or your hips. I knew what he meant. I would steer with my feet, and I did. And they already hurt. Now they hurt more, but who’s complaining? I mean, besides me.

Here’s the north lawn of the White House:

And now the Treasury Department. There’s no money in there! Har har.

This is the Old Post Office. Lately it is owned by Donald Trump, his first DC property. Built in 1899, it was the largest office building in Washington. It operated as a post office for only 15 years. Now it has office space. Soon it will be a hotel.

It boasts a 315-foot clock tower and some of the impressive views in town. Inside are the official United States Bells of Congress, a bicentennial gift from England celebrating the end of the Revolutionary War. They ring every Thursday evening and on special occasions. Something to check out on our next visit.

A picture of feet. And a Capitol building in the background.

The Smithsonian Castle on the Mall. Designed by James Renwick Jr., the Seneca red sandstone was originally intended to be white marble. Finished just after the Civil War, today it houses the administrative offices of the Smithsonian and the tomb of James Smithson.

Learning more about history on the Mall:

Nice to know some people still care, at the Vietnam Memorial:

The Washington Monument is covered in scaffolding in the background here. They are working to repair damage after the 2011 earthquake. It is said to be structurally sound, but essentially closed until sometime next year:

Some buildings just need a good high pressure washing. This is one of them:

After the Segway tour The Yankee changed and went back to the conference. I went to meet Elisabeth! She drove up to spend the day with us, which was great since we haven’t seen one another in four years. You won’t recognize her here, because she’s in disguise at the Spy Museum:

We had dinner here, one of those places with a full menu of delicious sounding food. When it came out it was delicious, and I would have liked more than the meager serving size. It was that kind of restaurant.

The check came out in a cigar box:

Elisabeth, Chris, The Yankee and I went to a bookstore on Dupont Circle for dessert. We had the cheesecake:

And here we are on the escalator:

Tomorrow, more tourist stuff and hanging out with Elisabeth and Chris.


9
Aug 13

Smithsonian Museum of American History

After a day at the AEJMC conference we set out for the Smithsonian, which has many museums on the National Mall. And the mall looks pretty rough. But the Capitol is nice.

Smithsonian

Here are a few of the artifacts we saw. These microphones were used by Franklin D. Roosevelt for his famous fireside chats:

Smithsonian

Smithsonian

This miniature desk, designed by Thomas Jefferson, was where he wrote drafts of the Declaration of Independence:

Smithsonian

A movie I’d never heard of, but now I want to see. Apparently James Earl Jones is not a big fan, but no worry. The plot is that there was an accident that killed high ranking officials and Jones’ character rose to the White House. That did not go over well. Mostly because they didn’t know he was also Darth Vader:

Smithsonian

I don’t collect things like this, but I really, really want a Clinton Jack-in-the-Box. Now imagine your best Clinton voice humming the Jack-in-the-Box song:

Smithsonian

In one museum display they have correctly described an entire generation:

Smithsonian

And there was so much, much more. There was the flag that inspired the national anthem — the first time I was here it was still being restored. You can’t take pictures of it, and you can’t quite make out the contemporary covers of the tune from where you see the flag, but the giant old flag is worth the walk alone.

Did I mention walking? My feet hurt. We haven’t even done that much walking.

Oh, by the way, the conference is being held near Chinatown. Here’s the big hint:

ChinaTown

Tomorrow we learn to ride Segways.


9
Aug 13

Touring the Capitol, Arlington

We did conferences this morning, where there were sessions and many tweets and meeting people and plenty of good research and teaching ideas. The conference is a good one.

In the late afternoon we ventured over to see the nice people who work in our Congressman’s office. We know them because we are High Powered People. You should see The Yankee’s pictures which prove it.

Anyway, one of them gave us a lovely, personal and individualized tour of this place:

Capitol
Maybe you’ve heard of it.

Each stand has two statues installed at the capitol. One of Alabama’s, the newest addition which was installed in 2009 by sculptor Edward Hlavka is Helen Keller:

Capitol
She replaced Jabez Curry, whom hardly anyone remembers — our guide was surprised I knew who he was. But let’s be honest about this: I’m me. And Curry was important. Also, that statue is now two floors below my office on campus.

Here’s the other statue, of Fightin’ Joe Wheeler, a man so awesome he was a Confederate general and then, decades later, an American general. If they come any tougher than Fighting Joe you don’t want to know about it. He was born in Georgia, was raised in Connecticut and died in New York. But he considered himself a Southerner and represented Alabama in the House of Representatives for several terms. I guess that qualifies for statuary.

He went from lieutenant to colonel to general in about nine months and made major general by 27, which you could do in the calvary if you lived long enough. He fought at Shiloh, Corinth, Chickamauga and Chattanooga. He was just about the only thing that slowed down Sherman, fought in Knoxville, Atlanta and Savannah, but the Georgians nevertheless didn’t care much for Wheeler. In the scheme of things it was largely ineffectual. He also fought in the Carolinas and try to cover the cowardly retreat of Jefferson Davis. He was captured late in the war, but only after he’d been wounded three times and had 16 horses shot out from under him. Sixteen!

He commanded calvary in the Spanish-American War, and was over a young Theodore Roosevelt there. Edmund Morris, in his near-hagiography The Rise of Theodore Roosevelt has Wheeler anecdote I shared today (from pages 668 and 675, respectively):

According to invasion orders, Major General Joseph (“Fighting Joe”) Wheeler, commander of the Calvary Division, was supposed to follow Brigadier General H.W. Lawton of the 2nd Infantry Division to Siboney and remain there to supervise the rest of the landing operation while Lawton established himself farther inland on the Camino Real, or Santiago road. But not for nothing had Fighting Joe earned his nickname, and his reputation of “never staying still in one place long enough for the Almighty to put a finger on him.” The fact that Lawton was tall, and fought for the Union in the Civil War, while Wheeler was five foot two, and had been the leader of the Confederate cavalry, only intensified the latter’s ambition to be first to encounter “the Yankees — dammit, I mean the Spaniards.” Needless to say, this attitude endeared him to the Rough Riders. “A regular game-cock,” was Roosevelts opinon of the bristling little general.

[…]

The way was now open for a final grand charge by all the American forces, with Roosevelt commanding the extreme left, Wood commanding the center, and the regulars on the right advancing under orders from General Wheeler himself. About nine hundred men broke out into the open and ran up the valley (Roosevelt stopping to pick up three Mauser cartridges as souvenirs for his children), their rifle-cracks drowned in the booming of four Hotchkiss mountain-guns. Like ants shaken from a biscuit, some fifteen hundred Spaniards leaped from their rock-forts along the ridge and scattered in the direction of Santiago. “We’ve got the damn Yankees on the run!” roard Fighting Joe.

He also commanded a brigade during the Philippine-American War until January 1900. He wrote five books, co-authored several more and appeared in an early film, Surrender of General Toral. He’s one of the few former Confederates buried at Arlington. This statue has been on display at the Capitol for 88 years. And he’s always been in front of Sam Houston:

Capitol
That statue, with Wheeler in Confederate uniform, was made by Berthold NebelBut that means that northwest Alabama is over-represented at the Capitol. I wonder if anyone has figured that out yet.

This clock was on display in the House of Representatives chamber for almost 75 years, from around the Civil War until just before the stock market crashed. (The clock had nothing to do with either, we’re sure.) The gilded oak case was designed by Joseph A. Bailly and built by the A. Bembe and Kimbel Company. The bronze eagle was modeled by Guido Butti, who did a lot of Capitol work, and cast by Archer, Warner, Miskey and Company. William H. Rinehart designed the Indian and Hunter figures. They were cast by Cornelius and Baker.

Capitol
This is the original Supreme Court. Just outside the door are the hooks where they hanged their robes. The nameplates are a new addition. But this is where the Justices heard arguments and that railing there, just on the other side of the padded seat, is thought to have given us the phrase “passed the bar.”

Capitol
This Magna Carta replica was given to us by the UK. The presentation case is stainless steel, clad in gold and white. The panel in the front is inscribed with a replica of the Magna Carta and has replicas of King John’s seal. The vertical glass panel is the English translation.

There are symbolic decorations of Adam and Eve, 50 diamonds representing the states, above a dove and a tree of life, a snake representing evil, the fruit of original sin and mistletoe. There’s the Tudor Rose of England, the Shamrock of Ireland, thistles of Scotland and daffodils of Wales. Thirty-one craftsmen worked on this case, designed by the man who made Prince Charles’ investiture crown.

It was presented to celebrate the bicentennial of American independence, in 1976. The oldest original copy of the Magna Carta rested here for a year.

Capitol
This is the old Senate chamber. It was used from 1810 until 1859. Daniel Webster, Henry Clay, John C. Calhoun, all of the names you read about in history class sat here. Many of the desks (now reproductions as the surviving originals have been moved to the modern Senate) have books placed on them marking historic figures or events.

That is an original George Washington painting, by Rembrandt Peale. The desk where the vice president sat is also original. Our guide mistakenly, or not so mistakenly, called it a throne.

Capitol
This room was never humble. The Congress has always thought of themselves as better than the rest of us:

Capitol
This is the famous, and famously incorrect John Trumbull painting.

Capitol
John Adams explains it himself:

Here’s a more … clever … interpretation of Trumbull’s vision. Nevertheless, this is the first completed painting of four Revolutionary-era scenes that the U.S. Congress commissioned from John Trumbull.

Speaking of paintings. Did you know that Samuel Morse dabbled with the colors? Morse of the Morse code Morses, that is. This is a study for the old House of Representatives chamber. He did this around 1821, to prepare for a nine-by-11 foot painting of the space.

Capitol
There is apparently only one section of floor in the Capitol that is mosaic. This is one corner of it:

Capitol
This Ronald Reagan, sculpted by Chas Fagan statue is in the Capitol rotunda as one of California’s two statues. The Tennessee Rose marble pedestal includes a narrow band of concrete pieces from the Berlin Wall. You can just see it at the bottom of the photo.

Capitol
One of my favorite things about Washington is the symbolism and how so many small details of history and meaning are intertwined in everything, just like that statue. Also, if you want to see more about all of the state’s statues, here’s the official site.

I’d almost completely forgotten about this, but our guide suggested we go see the Toomer’s Oak on Capitol Hill before the rains came. If I’d been on top of my game I would have visited a restroom in the Capitol, grabbed some toilet paper and did this up proper. But we rolled it anyway, with TP from the Cannon Building, one of the Congressional offices.

Capitol
We carefully removed the paper after taking a few pictures.

The Library of Congress, which is situated across from the Capitol:

Capitol
We took the Metro over to Arlington National Cemetery. We walked around for a long time, seeing the Kennedy’s and several Alabama men, a Medal of Honor winner Harry Parks and more generals than you can shake an admiral at.

We made it up to the tomb just in time to see the changing of the guard.

Capitol
We also walked over to Dean Hallmark’s grave. I wrote about him. His cousin is my friend. The two men buried on either side of him are also Doolittle Raiders. Elite company on that quiet little hill.

Capitol
We had a lot of walking today — and my feet would tell you all about it — and more tomorrow.


7
Aug 13

Travel day

Up and at ’em today. We finished packing bags and took to the interstate and across the state line into Georgia and then on to the airport in Atlanta.

I neglected to remove my wallet from my pocket at security — which is pretty standard for me. This alarmed the helpful blue shirt, so he ran it through the X-ray after pronouncing it a big wallet. It was fine, because there’s nothing in my wallet that frightens anyone except the absence of money.

He brought back my wallet and I shared my relief that he’d pronounced it safe for a representative democracy. He asked if he I was a writer, because I was sarcastic and had a beard and “writers don’t care about their facial hair.”

That’s profiling, sir.

So I shaved tonight.

Here are some of the clouds from our flight:

We are officially health nuts. The first thing we did when we got to D.C. was go for a jog. Ran by this place:

WhiteHouse

I was offering people a dollar if they’d just go up to the police and say “Hey, that sure is nice. Who lives there?”

We ran 3.6 miles and it all felt good, which means it felt weird because there is no way that should feel good. But it did.

Jogging wasn’t supposed to be the first thing we did. We had scheduled a Segway tour of the capitol, but our plane was delayed. All three cities involved — where our plan was coming from, where we were departing from and where we were arriving, were all simultaneously socked in. That pushed us back several hours.

And so we did our bit of exercise, got cleaned up and hit Bangkok Thai, close to our hotel. Got a cookie from the CVS surrounded by loud, profane, angry beggars — ahh, D.C. — and then back to the room to iron clothes for tomorrow.

We’ll be conferencing. See you then.


6
Aug 13

I put on sunblock for this

Woke up all ready for a nice calm medium length ride and found a flat.

The damage I did at that last triathlon had returned. The wound in the kevlar I found last weekend had fallen victim to some debris I picked up yesterday. I’ve ordered a new tire, but it hasn’t arrived yet.

liner

So I took off the old tire, pulled out the tube, found the leak was in the same place. Checked the liner there for any junk that’s going to hurt the next tube and cleaned the frame.

I have the my front tire died and my new one hasn’t arrived yet blues. A friend suggested there’s a song for that:

That song applies even when the bike is in working order..

And now I really want to ride.

(I really dislike sunblock.)