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16
Mar 23

Televised skiing can’t prepare you for steep mountain faces

On Tuesday we saw posters in Andorra la Vella for the FIS Alpine Ski World Cup, which was taking place near by. How often do you get to see the world’s best (at anything, really?) on a whim? Tickets were 10 euros, and the venue was not too far away from our apartment. These would be the perks of visiting a nation about the quarter of a size of most of the American counties I know.

So this morning we loaded our luggage in the car, had one last breakfast in Arinsal, picked up a little magnet for our refrigerator and then drove up to the skiing. We got some of the last parking available and walked in to a spectators area that wasn’t as big as most high school sports venues I’m used to. The crowd was boisterous. The sky was clear, the sun was bright and the temperatures were warm.

And, you could tell from a distance, the top of the mountain, stretches mid-way through the run, looked sheer and vertical. You’ve no idea until you see it in person. Even this shot at the finish line looks compressed and flat. It isn’t, as you’ll see.

The skiing was fantastic.

Swiss skier Lara Gut-Behrami won her fourth super-G title.

She also has an Olympic gold in this discipline.

This is what I know about skiing: they are trying to go fast. There are three timed segments on this course. And if you’re time is in the green at any of those segments, you’re in the lead. The only problem on the day was that there weren’t a lot of lead changes. Quite a few people, in the men’s and women’s races, came out with great times in that first timed stretch. The crowd would cheer, but they were wise to the course. None of that mattered if you weren’t in the green at the second timer, and if you didn’t have a crazy blend of chaos and sanity on that third leg, your time probably wouldn’t put you at the top of the board at the finish.

Only a few people could do that today, but when they did, the tension in the crowd was something physical and visceral. The tension went up, the cheering and the banging got louder. Maybe the skiers could feel it too. Maybe Marco Odermatt did.

The Swiss skier won the men’s super-G at the World Cup Finals with a huge performance. He’s on pace, apparently, to break the single season points record. I don’t have any idea how that’s tabulated, but the man in the aero suit is set to destroy a 23-year-old mark, and that’s not nothing. He could do it this weekend.

Also, we saw the greatest skier of all time.

American Mikaela Shiffrin was tied with Swedish legend Ingemar Stenmark with 86 career victories when she came down this mountain. She’d recently tied the record not too long after Stenmark, himself, said “She’s much better than I was. You cannot compare. I could never have been so good in all disciplines.”

In her career, Shiffrin, is a five-time Overall World Cup champion and a four-time world champion in slalom, an event where she also holds seven World Cup wins. She is also, of course, a two-time Olympic gold medalist.

Her wins record will continue to grow. Shiffrin is only 28, and she ended the year with 14 wins, her second best year yet, including championships in the slalom, the grand slalom and the overall.

On this day, the greatest to ever hurl herself down the face of a mountain finished 14th.

After the World Cup skiing, we got in the car and pointed it south, toward Barcelona. First we pointed it north, toward France, but that’s for another post.


15
Mar 23

Our last full day in Andorra

We have to start our return — a multistage effort — tomorrow. That’s a downer, but there’s a beautiful day to enjoy, so no frowns. Just these amazing, happy views.

That’s what we spent the afternoon doing, seeing the countryside.

But, first, The Yankee had a bit of skiing to do.

Dr. Lauren Smith — high school All-American, D1 multisport athlete, three-time Ironman, globally renowned sports media scholar — yesterday re-taught herself how to ski from memory, after a layoff of … most of the 21st century. She did this all by herself yesterday, on rented skis, on two runs down the easy slopes. And then she decided to branch out to slightly more challenging slopes. After a dozen-plus runs over the last two days, she pronounced her legs shaky, but very much happy with the skiing. And she stayed upright the entire time.

These are the last two — I’m not sure what you’d call these, runs? — of her time in the Pyrenees. She made it look graceful and easy, as all of the skiers did. And now I want to learn to ski. This is why.

We took a few gondola rides today, to go even higher, for even more sunny, blue sky views.

I’m sure it is an illusion of size, distance and scale, but it seems weird to be above the mountains.

The rides took us to a few other ski slopes. And, look, my hair is as white as this snow. (Thanks for that, Granddad.)

Don’t eat the ski snow.

Off to the side of the slopes there was a very small parking lot. And that lot has perhaps some of the best parking lot views in all of Andorra.

There should at least be some chairs and umbrellas out there.

Apparently that little thing in the background is a slidewalk, much like you’d see at an airport. Apparently this is the kids’ slope, barely downhill. One day, ages hence, when I learn to ski, this will be the sort of setup that will be used.

This part of the world is being impacted by climate change. There should be more snow and winter out there, but things are going green in a hurry. It’s hard to imagine too many more weekends of skiing out there this season.

Here, I’m getting low-angle artsy.

Mountain peak heart hands. MOUNTAIN PEAK HEART HANDS!

These are seriously good parking lot views.

We were the only people there. I don’t know how anyone would go about owning a mountain, but if you have a commanding view of a mountain, and you’re the only one seeing it, that must be what it feels like to own a mountain, if only for a moment.

Here is a video of some of those views. There are also some bloopers. And some outtakes of bloopers in the video. Enjoy.

On Monday we drove over to Val d’Incles. We wanted to walk to a lake out there, but the road was closed to through-traffic and walking the rest of the way would have put us in darkness. So we drove there again, earlier, today. The road was still closed, so we walked down the single-track path.

The thing is, once you walked a fair amount down that paved path, you would have to take a gravel path to get to one of these bodies of water. And that gravel path is where the hiking begins. There are helpful signs pointing out the lakes, and the distance away, and the time your hike would take. We still didn’t allow enough time.

So part of the way up the gravel path, we found this big rock. The one she’s standing on, not the one she’s pointing at.

We sat on that rock for an hour and change, just admiring this view.

Imagine having a little cabin out here. I think many of them are seasonal, since they’re still boarded up. But spring is almost there, and we spent that time imagining leaving your place in the city and coming up to a canyon like this to take in this peaceful scenery.

This is similar to a photo that I put here a moment ago, but there must be a reason for that.

I would not mind a cup of a tea, a good book, and views like these every day.

Plus, imagine how great our greeting cards would be!

And here’s a video with some of the views from Val d’Incles — including just the third cartwheel post-catastrophic shoulder surgery.

I wonder how much time we’d spend next to a small foot bridge if we had one on our property.

There’s a creek behind us, not this one of course, and we hang out there a bit. The difference is ours doesn’t turn into a miniature waterfall, and the water isn’t snow melt. Us flatlanders find this to be a wonderful novelty. And I’ll show you some more miniature waterfalls on Friday. But first this one.

And, yes, a version of that photo will soon be a part of the site’s art, but, then, a lot of things we’re seeing this week will soon decorate the place. There are beautiful things to see everywhere here. I didn’t set this up, and I’m hardly trying, but this is the very next photograph I took.

And walking back down that small road, to where we parked our rental car. The sun was high, but the mountains are too, and the light grows dim in Val d’Incles quickly.

Here’s one more view of the eastern side of the valley.

We went back into Andorra la Vella for dinner, and sat down for a place that takes great pride in grilling meats. We also wanted to return to this playground, which we saw yesterday, to try this contraption.

A kid was on it before we went to the spa. Same kid was on it hours later. This evening, two girls were playing there. We stared them down, ran them off, and took a few turns. This was fun. I don’t know what you call this, but every playground needs one.

After four or five back-and-forths, we drove back up to our apartment in Arinsal. Time to get backed up. We’ll have one more Andorra adventure tomorrow, and then it is back down to sea level and Barcelona, tomoorrow. Then, Friday, the airport, and a long day of travel back to the U.S.


14
Mar 23

Constitution Day in Andorra

Happy Tuesday from a delightful little part of Europe. We’re high in the mountains, and this is the delightful little view from our delightful little balcony at the ski lodge in Arinsal. You can also see a fair amount of the village below.

If you turn your head to the left a bit, as I did, while you were enjoying your morning tea, as I was, you would see this other delightful little hill.

Everything is delightful, then. So much so, I had more than one cup of tea this morning.

The Yankee, for her part, went skiing. We’re in the Pyrenees. We’re at a ski lodge. Why wouldn’t you go skiing? She hasn’t been on skis in a few decades and was eager to give it a try. I was eager for her to start out on the bunny slopes, which she did. She rented some equipment from one of the 45 rental places in this small town, borrowed my coat, and found her ski legs again. She said she did a couple of runs down the smallest slopes, and then tried a few more challenging routes.

In my mind, she was blazing her way down this mountain.

She came back to our apartment sweaty, smiling, and extremely happy with her first ski adventures in 23 or so years, in New England.

The plan for the day, which saw rain and snow in the forecast, was to stay indoors. Turns out you can’t trust weather forecasts in the high mountains. The weather, aside from some early sunny snow fall mid-morning, was pitch perfect.

We made our way down the mountains into Andorra’s capital, Andorra la Vella, population 23,000.

Come to find out, today is Constitution Day in Andorra. This is one of their four big holidays. (Happy Constitution Day, Andorra!) All of the shopping is closed down, which is fine, that’s not our purpose, but a big part of the local economy. Most of the restaurants and other businesses were closed, too. Apparently everyone went skiing.

We had lunch in a subdued little Italian joint overlooking an empty lot where kids were chasing pigeons and kicking soccer balls. Despite a few minutes of wandering around looking for a place for lunch, it was a lovely mid-day.

Our afternoon plans were to visit Caldea Spa, the largest spa centre in Southern Europe. They have four spas in there, and on Tuesdays and Wednesdays no kids allowed. Overall, it was …

We visited the Inúu spa, which features a “great interior lagoon” with thermal waters (91 degrees) that develop into waterfalls, powerful water jets for massages and bubble beds. You can walk or swim outside, too. And, sure, it’s late winter in the mountains, but the water was warm. Also, the sun, the clean air, the views of the mountains that surround you, and the jacuzzi.

There was also a gym, a “treatments space,” and a relaxation spa, all of which we skipped. We did take part in the “reactivation space,” which offers a “complete set of services that awaken your senses.” There was a sauna, heated walls and chromatic showers at different pressures and temperatures.

We stayed for five hours. It was, as the building promised, ssspaaactacular.

Strictly because it is colorful, this is the underside of the elevated sidewalk going into the spa, which sits in the center of the valley, in the heart of Andorra la Vella.

I don’t know how often I would go to a place like this if it was near me, but I’m sure I’d find a way to add it into some sort of routine. “If anyone needs me,” I said I would say, “I’ll be at my spa.”

It was a wonderful day, a relaxing vacation day. The only problem with Constitution Day was that we had limited meal choices. Since the big city was shut down, we drove back up to Arinsal, where we are staying, because we knew Surf was serving.

Surf is where we had dinner Sunday night, the Argentinian steakhouse.

When you’re in a steakhouse, you should consider a steak which, for whatever reason, neither of us did Sunday. When you’re in an Argentinian steakhouse, you should absolutely order steaks. They were sssteaaakctacular.

Tomorrow, more skiing, and more sightseeing!


13
Mar 23

Exploring the Pyrenees in Andorra

Good morning from Andorra. This is the view from our balcony. Not. Too. Shabby.

Today we set out for a bit of sightseeing. Not that there’s anything to marvel at around here.

It was a Hot Picture-Taking Date. I think you can see why.

Here’s a panorama. Click to embiggen.

And here’s the first of several videos of some of the day’s views.

We stopped my a place where several different hiking paths intersected. On one side of the road there was a little cut out for drivers to park and enjoy the views. On the other, a low wooden rail fence, beyond which there was a grass clearing.

A truck was parked there, the local version of a park ranger. No one was around, and you could stand there, feeling like a small king near the top of the world. Naturally there was a stone desk set for your photographs.

That’s 6,496 feet to you and me. Almost 1.25 miles above sea level. Sometimes, when you get to a certain elevation, it feels like you’re looking down on other mountains.

This was the first bit of downhill we’ve encountered in Andorra. The road hit the valley floor and immediately started going back up.

Some more video views.

And I now invite you to enjoy another amazing panorama. Click to embiggen.

Oh, look, here are the tourists, doing touristy things.

Such tourists.

Next we visited Mirador Roc del Quer.

On the sign out front someone named Raimon Diaz Marino has left visitors a message. Pardon my awkward translation.

Mother Earth is magical and sacred. She keeps memories of life and the universe. She witnesses wisdom on every mountain, in every drop of water and in every living being. She nourishes us and we are all her children.

And this place is the Roc del Quer, “The White Mountain.” In the heart of the Pyrenees and what Canillo looks upon.

You want to become an observer? We invite you to visit the route.

Observe and feel what surrounds you and keep this place in your heart.

Think about that as we walk out.

This is the view off the right side of the trail.

Here’s a panoramic version of that view. As with all of the panoramas, click to embiggen.

This is the view directly ahead of you.

Mountain peak heart hands. MOUNTAIN PEAK HEART HANDS!

We are somewhere between 6,379 and 6,276 feet above sea level here. (There were signs at both ends of the short trail, and this is taken in the middle.) The now seemingly low clouds are a good reminder.

“Wisdom on every mountain, in every drop of water and in every living being …”

And then we met this guy.

Who is that guy? That’s The Ponderer.

The Ponderer

by artist Miguel Ángel González, whose calm and meditative attitude invites visitors to do the same. Sitting on a beam, undaunted, it appears as if the height causes him no fear whatsoever. And in fact, it doesn’t: it fills him with strength and confidence.

We’re standing 40 feet off the side of the mountain, on a walkway, taking in these spectacular views, enjoying what The Ponderer is sharing with us, the valleys of Montaup and Valira d’Orient, the new spring ready to burst forth, the winter well into it’s early retreat.

The Pyrenees are about 85 million years old. Moving tectonic plates closed the sea. Refracted rocks fold, faults form. The stones go up, and the valleys too for a time, which is why you can find the seabed so high up. The most extensive glacial erosion in these parts, the signs say, was between 20,000-40,000 years ago. Then the planet’s weather shifted. Ice and snow melted away, and you see these rugged shapes, hints of the still relatively new mountains, though, as the signs note, erosion and evolution of the landscape continues.

“Everything is in constant motion and change.”

There, I just summed up 85 million years of geology, and seven signs about it written in Catalan, in 92 words.

Now, when you walk away from the Mirador Roc del Quer, back up the 400 meter trail, and then down the road a short way to the parking lot, and then drive on down into the valley below, you have a chance to look back, and up, to where you just were. See that horizontal bit jutting out of the mountain on the right?

We were just standing on that.

Here’s a video of some of the views from around that region …

We’ll stop there for now. That’s 18 images, three panoramas and four videos. That’s a high quality hot picture-taking date!


12
Mar 23

And now, on to our vacation

After traveling to Spain via Amsterdam (almost Zurich) and New York, we attended two days of conference work, and just a few of Barcelona’s wonderful sites, we returned to the airport. But not for a plane, thank goodness, but a car.

We then pointed that car three hours north. We figured, let’s do most of the drive in daylight. You know, for the views, but also because we were in another country, on roads we’ve never seen before. But also for the views.

So we did that, GPS-aglow on the dash of a blue Volkswagen rental. It is a sedan-over-cross-UV, the sort of hideously designed thing where you have to step up, and duck down, at the same time, to get in. For four or five days, though, it’s perfect.

Here’s why, that great big beautiful GPS in the dash. Possibly the backup camera. And the side mirrors fold in. This is critically important.

So these shots are a but a few glimpses we saw as we made our way up the autovía, A-2 and C-14, with the idea of the Pyrennes looming ahead of us.

After we put the big city and a bit of sprawl behind us, the car started pointing up, and it never stopped pointing up. The airport, the car rental place are right on the shore of the Mediterranean. It is, for the Spainard, a seasonably cool early spring. They’re all still wearing coats down there as the mercury heroically makes its way into the mid-70s, or 23 degrees, Celsius. You can be sure that everyone we saw in Barcelona wearing light clothing was a tourist. Someone we know at the conference said he went back to his room and changed out of shorts one day, because he felt conspicuous.

In light of that, we’re spending the next few nights above the snow line.

We’re leaving Spain for this vacation. When my lovely bride built out this trip — she is the chief builder outer of all of our adventures and she is, despite the occasional logistical hiccup, undefeated — we considered going to the beach or going into the mountains.

We quickly decided that we made the correct choice. Not without plenty of consultation mind you. We talked with colleagues, neighbors and I even asked a few questions of a college buddy of mine who is from Spain. They all pointed us this way.

This way is to a microstate, population 80,000, bordered by France to the north and Spain to the south. We’re staying in a small village in that small state. Wikipedia tells me it is the 10th largest city, by population. Wikipedia says 1,641 live there. It is a ski resort town.

To get there, we just keep climbing up and up and up. Then there is, finally, a ski lodge. We get the key from a little black box. The keyring also holds a remote control that orders the elevator. The car elevator. You have to line the vehicle up between two narrow curb markers, pull your mirrors in, eeeeeease into a small cargo elevator, turn off the engine for CO2 purposes, and then wonder if the elevator does what the AirBnB hosts says it does.

And when it does, you’re in a creepy, dark, underground parking deck, dimly lit by fluorescent bulbs on motion sensors, with support pillars every 1.5 parking spaces. Navigating this would be tricky. My parking in college was substantially more demanding, and, what’s I am the grandson of men who drove great big trucks for a living. The weak link here is the Volkswagen, which, tonight, sits crooked in our assigned spot. And we are now settling into Andorra.

For dinner, we had a reservation at Surf Arinsal, an Argentian steak house highly recommended by the AirBnB. Just look at that menu, won’t you?

And look at this homemade bubble bread with garlic.

Tomorrow, we start the sightseeing!