Monday


24
Jun 13

The Ring of Kerry, from Kenmare to Dingle

This was breakfast at Virginia’s Guesthouse this morning. Breakfast is the signature of the place.

Breakfast is what we do best at Virginia’s. Noreen is a dedicated “Foodie” and loves to cook. Therefore our varied breakfast menu is constantly changing from season to season, offering only the very best of produce and featuring lots of creative and personalised dishes, as well as the standard Full Irish Breakfast … Noreen’s signature dish is her award-winning “Blue Cheese, Pears & Bacon”.

Turns out the blue cheese on this plate came from the cows we heard mooing at the Rock of Cashel yesterday. They were just telling us we had something to look forward to.

I’d mentioned the narrow roads. This is common. If you convert this, that’s 50 miles per hour. You’ve no idea …

Today was a big driving day. This is our basic route:

The peninsula has several deep glacial lakes. People tend to bypass these if they aren’t careful, but they are peaceful and can offer some great views:

Here’s a brief video from there:

Ah, the old head-on-a-wall joke …

When was the last time you were at a glacial lake?

Evidence! I have it! She started the making-faces game!

We took several of these photos. My eyes are closed in all of them. Uncanny.

She’s showing off her ring, awww.

And now for some potty humor. We stopped at the Parknasilla Resort. The original place here dates back to the 18th century, and once included the Derryquin Castle, which was burned in 1922 by the IRA. The rest of Parknasilla’s history is … complex … and references Noah.

Anyway, I don’t think I’ve ever said this before, but you have to check out the bathrooms:

What was that logo?

Check out the handle.

Enough of that. Just outside of Parknasilla everything feels magical:

But then everything does here, even an hour in the car. You get great treats along the way:

There are wide spots designed for you to pull over every so often. Take advantage of them. Linger.

Or you could be like the typical tourist and hop out, snap a picture and then immediately pile back into the car. Be sure to take your time.

If you don’t you’ll miss a lot of little delights.

Our next stop on the Ring of Kerry was Staigue Fort. You turn off a country road and drive up what amounts to the loneliest private driveway in the world. There are two houses in this valley, and if not for the occasional tourist it would be the sleepiest place you’ve ever imagined.

Rick Steeves’ guidebook calls this a desolate high valley, but I disagree. This place has a lot going for it. Check out these next several shots before I finally show you the fort.

Staigue Fort is believed to date between 300 and 400 AD. It was a defensive fortification, a cultural center and perhaps had some religious significance. The walls are 18 feet high in places and almost as thick at the bottom. It is about 90 feet in diameter. There is no mortar, just stacks of stones, and is thus considered an impressive historical effort of engineering.

If you were standing where I am when taking this picture, you’d be surrounded by hilly terrain on three sides. Over my left shoulder, and down a long chute of this valley, is the sea. No one snuck up on Staigue.

And now to show you how quickly the light changes here, and to give you a slightly different view of the fort, here’s a 360-degree effort I shot on Photosynth. See how parts of the shot are over or under exposed as you move around in it? Cloud, sun, cloud, darker cloud, sun. The sky is very dramatic here:

Later we discovered, almost by accident and visited purely on impulse, the local Skelligs Chocolate factory. They give you samples, and it is delicious:

The next stop is “the best view in County Kerry” just outside of Portmagee. Check out these views:

Of course there is a video. It is the sort of place you could loiter at for a long time, after all.

A few animals we passed on our walk up to that view. There were horses and sheep, too.

And then we visited Cahergall Stone Fort. Some of this is still original, though the upper parts are a historical reconstruction. The sign says “It is likely that somebody of importance lived here about 1,000 years ago.” All of this must be frustrating for historians and archeologists. Some of these forts go back 2,500 years after all. Here’s The Yankee climbing the steps on the inside wall:

Adam demonstrates the height of this fort:

We arrived at Dingle, checked into our bed and breakfast — Eileen Collins’ Kirrary House and ventured out for dinner at John Benny’s Pub, I had a hearty, delicious beef pie. These guys were playing, and you can hear one of their songs in the slideshow below.

We had ice cream at the famous Murphy’s. I was not previously aware that an ice cream shop could be famous, but USA Today called it one of the best in the world. It was good.

Tomorrow we’re riding bikes.


17
Jun 13

Visiting London

We landed in Heathrow after a hard night in bad airplane seats. I think I slept about two hours. I fell asleep in the last Die Hard movie. Both the movie, and the flight, were that un-good.

Heathrow Airport was lovely, as it was on my first visit there. We boarded a train into the London city center. There were no garbage cans anywhere, but it was the cleanest public transportation you’ve ever experienced.

We got off at one train stop and hopped on the Underground. It felt like we’d walked into a Roma train station in the 1970s. If you remember the 70s or any Roman train station maybe that would make sense.

We left the Underground and walked just up the street to our hotel. We got checked in. This is our view:

The guy on the street corner pretending to catch cabs was dressed to the nines. It is so cute when the British try to be British:

As cabs go, this is a sweet paint job:

We made our way up toward Picadilly Circus, where they seem to be celebrating something about the queen. Hard to put your finger on it though. But that sure is a lot of banners. And while I like patterns, repetitious banners are a bit unsettling. Nevertheless.

We went here, for high tea:

Fortnum and Mason does tea the proper way, with leaves, not bags. That means you get a fancy strainer:

Here’s a part of our tea set:

And the food that comes with high tea. Pure carbs, but I was all about calories. Travelling around the world changes more than your sleep patterns.

Of course they sell stuff at Fortnum and Mason. Who doesn’t love a good tin?

I don’t know what Tawny Port is, but it makes a nice pattern. And I like patterns:

A friend told us to be tourists and take the double decker bus tour of downtown London, that it gives you a good lay of the land. He was right. If you find yourself in London, take the bus tour. Sit on top. And sit in the back.

One of the first things we saw on the bus tour was a giant horse. And it eats people!

London has all manner of architecture. There’s something for everyone:

There are three golden divers above Coventry Street. This site says they go mostly unnoticed. I don’t see how.

Columns? London has plenty of the Greek classical influence:

You want a weather vane topped by a ship? The British call this building Eclectic Baroque. There are domes, Greek elements, flying buttresses, Egyptian influences … so … yeah.

And then there’s terrible post-modern stuff in the financial district.

And here’s the tallest building in London, the Shard, topped out in 2012 at 1,016 feet and 72 stories. It is the tallest building in the European Union and the second-tallest free-standing structure in the United Kingdom. Qatari investors run the joint. No one talks about how the top doesn’t all join together. The view is a good one.

And then there’s this thing, which should return quietly to the 1960s:

How about the buildings you know? Sure, we saw those. Here’s a glimpse of Westminster Abbey:

The Marble Arch was designed in 1825 as ceremonial entrance to the courtyard of the new Buckingham Palace. It was moved a few years later. Now it sits in a traffic island.

And a V-2 rocket attached to the side of the building. Nearby is the German flag. I wonder how that goes over.

The London Eye is the tallest Ferris wheel in Europe, and was the tallest in the world when it was built in 1999. It is still third. More than 3.5 million people ride it each year:

Look kids, Big Ben!

Here’s a bit more detail of the tower, which was completed in 1858. That’s the largest four-faced chiming clock in the world.

And the Palace of Westminster, where the House of Commons and the House of Lords meet.

From a different angle:

And a closeup of some of the detail: Check out those animal sculptures:

Here are my three favorite signs we saw today. Robertsons is, and always has been, a pawn shop. It stayed in the family until the 1960s. Suddenly you’re a lot less interested. Me too.

Scottish paper, great message on Fleet Street. It has been around since 1877:

This is the best sign anywhere, and it should be sold to fans of ale and pie. It’d be a hit.


10
Jun 13

Sea day

This is a sea day. I must confess that before my first cruise I was skeptical of the entire adventure. And then on that cruise, as part of our honeymoon, I laughed at the notion of sea days. Now sea days are my favorite. I’d like to take a weeklong cruise of nothing but sea days. They are restive and there’s so much to do. Or not do.

This first sea day was also a formal night in the dining room. One of the menu choices was an appetizer of frog legs. One of my uncles has been trying to get The Yankee to try frog legs for years. Under the “This is vacation; why not?” rule she had some tonight.

froglegs

She said they tasted like chicken.

Here’s sunset off the deck. Sea days give you plenty of times to see the water. We also ran a 5K this morning. And, of course, made all of the cruise ship jokes:

sunset

You also get to explore the ship. Our vessel has robots:

robots

And, of course, we got to see a show. There are aerialists here. They fly around in the sky. They are from France. I bet if you get stuck on an elevator with them they don’t take up a lot of room:

aerialists

We have another wonderful sea day tomorrow.


3
Jun 13

The day of many personalities

At first the day looked like this:

Rain

And late in the afternoon, this was the rule:

Allie

And that’s not a bad way to spend a Monday.

The posting here will be light this week, but do stop by. I’m going to post an old picture or two just to keep things interesting.


27
May 13

“We’re just kin to everybody.”

Below are 1,500 self-indulgent words. But also a lot of interesting old photographs. If nothing else, scroll down for those.

Visiting with my grandmother, I asked her if she remembered the DVD that someone made her of all the old family portraits. She did. And would she mind going through them with me again, telling me the names of the people she knew. She said she would, but she didn’t know them all since that was a collection of her in-laws.

We never did get around to that DVD today, but we did trace her family back quite a way.

This is a cell phone picture of what is probably a Xerox transfer into a vanity publication. Two people in the family, one of whom I know and the other who doesn’t even sound familiar, spent countless hours putting together an amazing book. That tome probably proves my great-grandmother’s point, “We’re just kin to everybody.”

When we tried to make sense of it all, you could see the wisdom in her argument. But it also seems to go back to 1820 Tennessee for that branch of my family tree, and this wedding license:

Samuel

Prior to that, the few traces of evidence only leave us with more questions. So we’ll just start with Samuel and his new wife Nancy. They raised a family, including this man, whom they named Pleasant, who was born in 1836.

Samuel

He joined the Confederate Army in 1861, was mustered in as a private in Co. H of the 26th/50th Alabama Infantry, where he became the company musician. The book suggests that Pleasant was a fiddler and says all of his kids played instruments.

History tells us the 50th was a bad unit to be in:

Ordered to Tennessee the unit fought at Shiloh, saw light action in Kentucky, then was placed in Deas’, G.D. Johnston’s, and Brantley’s Brigade, Army of Tennessee, and was active in North Carolina. At Shiloh the regiment had 440 effectives, but because of casualties, sickness, and exhaustion, the number was less than 150 by the second day. It lost 4 killed and 76 wounded at Murfreesboro, 16 killed and 81 wounded at Chickamauga, and totalled 289 men and 180 arms in December, 1863. The unit sustained 33 casualties in the Battle of Atlanta and was badly cut up at Franklin. Few surrendered in April, 1865.

But Pleasant lived through it. He got married to Martha Ann in 1863 and after the war they raised a family of eight children. Six of those children, born during Reconstruction, lived until after World War II. Pleasant was a farmer, his wife a seamstress, a very typical lifestyle, which becomes common up this branch of the family.

Pleasant was my grandmother’s great-grandfather. He died at 52 and is buried in Tennessee.

One of Pleasant’s boys was Jim. He was born in the winter of 1871, a year when the crops didn’t come in and the cotton caterpillars ravaged what was there. Jim married Sarah in 1904 and and they lived on a farm that her grandfather bought in 1854. These are my grandmother’s grandparents. There’s a story in the book about a neighborly dispute. A dog killed some sheep. The neighbor was upset about his dog being killed and is said to have put his foot on the doorstep, and Sarah cleaned his clock with a liniment bottle. It says she was “Wild Tom’s” daughter and she had heard enough. So leave that lady alone. (Tom’s grave. Tom married Elizabeth. Her father, Jesse, Jr., was born in Lauderdale County in 1820, the year after Alabama gained statehood. His father, Jesse, Sr., was born in 1787 in Virginia, the year the Constitution was signed.) Sarah’s exclamation of surprise, the kind of detail that should last longer than dates and cemeteries, was “Well, Goodnight Isom!”

Jim Sarah Ann

They were from the same community, as was often the case, and much of the family still lives within 20 miles of there. These were my grandmother’s grandparents, and she remembers them with a sweet smile.

Here’s Jim as a young man, and I’m going to blame my cowlick on him for a while:

Jim

And here he is a few years later, looking like he wants to ride with Jesse James (to whom I have some distant relation on the other side of my family):

Jim

On this side of the family that we’re discussing today they were just normal salt-of-the-earth types. The recorded history has a lot of farmers and working-folks. Here’s Jim’s wife, Sarah — my great-great-grandmother — as a young woman:

Sarah Ann

And as a much older couple, my grandmother’s grandparents, Jim and Sarah once more:

Jim Sarah

(I think my grandmother favors her grandmother a bit, myself.) This was recorded sometime before 1953, when Jim died. Sarah passed away in 1970, the mother of 11 children. And while it is hard to imagine people your mind only registers as “old” being young, here is a picture of four of those 11 kids. On the far right is my great-grandfather, who was playing in the mud or had a sunburn or something:

Horace

Horace, the little guy on the right, was born in May of 1909 and would grow up to be a dashing young man and a farmer. He’d meet and court and marry Lela Mae who was also born in 1909. My grandmother’s parents were married in 1928 in Giles County, Tenn., 10 months before Wall Street fell. This photo is undated:

Horace Lela Mae

They both lived into my lifetime, though I don’t have any memories of either of them. If I did, that would mark 12 grandparents or great-grandparents I knew. Horace and Lela Mae had seven children, including my grandmother.

Here are Horace and Lela Mae at their 50th anniversary party — an event I was apparently at but don’t recall:

Horace Lela Mae

So that is my paternal grandmother’s father’s side of the family. What about her mother’s side?

Lela Mae’s parents were Pink and Sarah. There are two poor photos:

PinkSarah

Apparently, if you’ll notice Sarah’s long hands and fingers, you’ll see a distinguishing family trait. I did not receive this gene. All of Pink’s family moved to Texas, but Sarah’s father offered him a farm to stay in Alabama.

Pink was born on October 19, 1867. There was a lot of rain that spring, the rivers had been up, but the crops were bad. Sarah was born in 1872, a year when the crops were recorded as above average. Both were from Tennessee.

They were married in either 1889 or 1890 in the community of Prospect, Tenn. Google suggests the church isn’t there anymore. They’d eloped on horseback, though, and the rivers were up again that year. The story apparently went that Pink and Sarah were almost drowned, but they went on with their wet clothes to the church and said their vows. Pink and Sarah P. had three of their children in Tennessee before moving to Lauderdale County, Ala. in 1896 or 1897, where they would have seven more children. They were together for 40 years. Sarah died in 1930 and Pink died of typhoid in 1932.

So those were my grandmother’s other grandparents. They died a few years before she was born.

Pink’s parents were Thomas and Louiza. Thomas was born in 1849 in Tennessee, Louiza was from Alabama. They were married just days after the official end of the Civil War. They moved to Alabama and had 12 kids, all of which, except for Pink, moved to Texas. Pink stayed because his father-in-law offered him a farm to keep him in Alabama, a big moment in family history.

Sarah’s parents were Ben (who was born in 1827 in Alabama and buried at a family cemetery in 1899) and Sarah Ann (which confuses things) who was born about 1841. Sarah P., the younger, was born in Lawrence County, Tenn.

Ben, by the way, was a noted card shark. At one time he won a sawmill in a hand of cards. At another table he won a farm. He also served as a private, Company A, 53 Regiment Tennessee Infantry, which served at Fort Donelson over the Cumberland River to protect the approach to Nashville. Some 11,000 rebels were captured there, but I’ve no way of knowing if that happened to Ben. The unit would later fight in Louisiana, Jackson, Mississippi, Mobile and the fighting north of Atlanta, including the Battle of New Hope Church (We have a lot of family history there.) just north of Atlanta.

Ben’s dad, Burgess or Bergus, was born in South Carolina in 1800. His wife, Margaret, was born between 1800 and 1805 in Alabama. Burgess’ dad was Johnston and his mother was Rhoda, both thought to have been born around 1874 in Edgefield, S.C. There’s a mention of a paternal grandfather, Jeff (or John, depending on the document). He was born before the Revolutionary War. After that the haze turns to murk. We’re back to the 1700s, though, in South Carolina, with my grandmother’s great-great-great-great grandparents. Yet another side of the family tree that has been around for a while.

Since you’re still reading, three more pictures. This is Horace, my grandmother’s father, in his buggy, which is being pulled by Ader the mule:

Horace

This is Horace’s father, my great-great grandfather, Jim:

Jim

And finally, the last one, the one that’s worth it. This is my grandmother, in the foreground, as a baby:

grandmother

The hand-written caption reads “Every time someone tried to take this picture her diaper feel down. So what? Let’s get the shot anyway!”