weekend


29
Jun 13

Back at Enniskerry

So we’re back at the Ritz-Carlton on the Powerscourt Estate in Enniskerry. You remember, a week ago we were here and we had a television in our bathroom mirror. We can’t afford a Ritz, and are clearly out of our element. We cashed in a lot of hotel points. The place is amazing.

There are two shower heads in the shower, one above you and one for the body. The shower is made of marble, and so is a perfectly echoed singing chamber. The television in the bathroom mirror, well, ours didn’t work at first, but they fixed it.

Also the wallpaper was peeling and there was a definitive wear pattern in the carpet. We want our money back.

Adam and Jessica though, of course, had the nicest suite in the joint. They’d just gotten engaged there nine days before, after all. And, despite there being a wedding going on at the hotel that very evening, despite their week long absence, they were still the talk of the entire hotel. We had a good time pointing out how inferior our amazing room was compared to their rooms. They had two entrances, and almost as many square feet as our house. The place is incredible.

Here is one of the lesser chandeliers:

Everyone is amazing. Gordon Ramsay has a restaurant in the basement. The pool was cut out of the earth with Swarovski crystals, and then lined with better Swarovski. The beds are all feather down. The window shades have remote controls. You can set the thermostat by the door or from the remote in the nightstand.

And here’s the mountain view that commands the surrounding area:

So the place is amazing. Down the hill in Enniskerry we had dinner at one of the three or four restaurants there. It is a small little village, all surrounding a square. The grocery store, which we also visited, is like a middling convenience store back home. But everything else has a dignified air of yuppiedom to it.

We saw a lot of cyclists shredding their legs on the hills. And, in sympathy, we spent most of the day at the pool, repacking bags and eating cookies. It was a good time for a day like this. After so many days of vacation we all realized we needed a little break.

Life. Is. So. Hard.

What a great trip though, and it is a terrible shame that it has to end tomorrow. We’ll get up, have breakfast here and lunch elsewhere and then be on our way to the airport in Dublin for the long flight back to the States. The trip will end, the memories and the scenery and the jokes and all of the wonderful adventure of will just play in our heads on a loop for a while. Two friends got engaged, we realized we should have counted how many times we said “Wow” at every incredible view these amazing landscapes offered and we had a nearly perfect trip, all planned by The Yankee.

I don’t think she’s willing to hire herself out to plan your itineraries, but if you offered her enough money she’d make you an awesome one. You’d see all the best places and come back with a lifetime of memories. She plans a great trip.


23
Jun 13

The Rock of Cashel, from Kilkenny to Kenmare

You order the full Irish breakfast, you get the full Irish breakfast. Throw in some museli and then proclaim this the best bed and breakfast ever. And maybe it is. Irish sausage, also, is better than anything we have at home.

You see a lot of old stone buildings just sitting roadside here. Some of them are important, some are just old structures. Most of them don’t even have signs or notations on a map. They just are. That’s how old the place is, a few hundred years is nothing, and it could just be the place an old angry person lived for all you know.

Today we visited the Rock of Cashel. This was where the kings of Munster ruled for 600 years, from the 4th century to 1101, when it was given to the church. This is the view as you drive up:

Inside you see St. Patrick’s Cross, built in the 12th century in the Latin style. One side has a carving meant to depict the crucifixion, the other side has an abbot, possibly St. Patrick himself. The base of the cross is hollow and is believed to have been a storage and hiding place for valuables:

Here are a few of the artifacts they’ve discovered at the Rock, and dated back to the 12th century:

There is a cemetery at the Rock, still active. The local authorities tried to close it in the early 20th century, but the community decided to have a lottery and that allowed for a few more spaces for the residents and their children. Our tour guide said there are four or five people of that generation still living.

If you look off in the distance behind her you might just notice a chunk of rock missing from the mountain on the right. Local lore is that the devil was flying over Ireland, took a bite out of that mountain and dropped it here, forming the rock upon which the church sits.

This is the north transept, and, in the top left corner, the round tower. The north transept contains late medieval tombs and grave slabs.

Here’s The Yankee outside the north transept, with that round tower in the background:

A wider shot, looking from the west. There is scaffolding covering the east side as they slowly work to renovate the structure.

We heard cows mooing in the pastures down below us:

The weather changed from cold to windy to raining to sunny to warm all while we were at the Rock. Crazy weather.

See those holes in the walls? That’s how they built the building. They’d get to a certain level and then put a large piece of wood there and build around it. Then they’d cut the wood out and remove their middle aged scaffolding.

This is inside Cormac’s Chapel, a small Romanesque church that was was consecrated in 1134 and named for King Cormac. This is looking at the archway just in front of the altar:

The frescoes in Cormac’s Chapel, such as they are, are the oldest Romanesque wall paintings in Ireland. The earliest are dated to around the church’s building, so circa 1134, and have a simple masonry pattern. The later paintings, thought to date back to between 1160-70, are narrative scenes, including the Nativity. Scholars believe outside artists, perhaps from England or France, were brought in for the work. They were covered with whitewash during the 16th century Reformation and remained hidden until the 1980s. The lime used in the whitewash wiped out the rest.

That red patina comes from only one place in the world: Afghanistan. The church was spending some money to get the ingredients shipped all the way to Ireland.

This is standing under the altar’s archway and looking back into the church. It is a small facility, thought to have been used by Benedictine monks:

Looking into the altar itself, you can’t quite make out the apse vault. But you can see more of those heads carved into the arch. The thought is that they were used to ward off evil spirits from invading the altar.

The interior and exterior views of that transept:

I like to get artsy with doorways sometimes:

Two of the markers in the cemetery:

This is a view from the east side. I’ve cropped out all of the aluminium scaffolding, which is off the left margin. The Rock of Cashel is on a rocky plateau that rises 300 feet above the surrounding plain known as the Golden Vale of Tipperary.

Just off the plateau you can see the Hore Abbey, a Cistercian monastery. This dates back to the mid-13th century:

Changing it up a bit here. I took a lot of shots in the car as we drove around today. Here are two of them. After that, you’ll see a little video montage of the rest of more.

And this is Kenmare, where we checked into Virginia’s Guesthouse.

Downtown looks like this:

We had dinner at Foley’s Restaurant. The live music in the video above is from the performers we heard tonight. If you’re interested in our route today, it looked something like this:

A lot more tomorrow!


22
Jun 13

Heading out to Kilkenny

We’re driving on the left again. And you would not believe these roads.

They are of good quality. And, thankfully, empty as we are taking some scenic, rural routes. But these are narrow, one-lane strips of asphalt and the speed limits reach 100 kilometers per hour. Imagine, maybe, the width of a really wide parking space at home. Drive 60 miles per hour on something like that with brush and stone fences on either side of you.

I think this smile was forced:

Ren

But we are on the road. And by we I mean our friend Adam, who I met several years ago while writing a feature story on a World War II relative of his.

Adam

And his brand new fiance, Jessica. They just got engaged yesterday. And now she has to put up with us on a road trip she knows nothing about. This was all sprung on her. She has patience and a good sense of humor. We’ll see how long we can test those.

Jessica

Fun people, fine friends. We’re glad there here.

Here’s our route today:

We’re seeing sights like these. Scroll down through the next several images. We’ll get some more words in here eventually. These are just shots I took out of the window as we drove from Enniskerry to Kilkenny today. I’m told the views only get better.

Ireland

Ireland

Ireland

Ireland

Ireland

We checked into our Bed & Breakfast in Kilkenny, which is a town of about 24,000 people when you count the outlying folks. The name derives from the Irish meaning “church of Cainnech.” And Cainnech is Saint Cainnech, of Aghaboe, a 6th century Gaelic abbot, priest and missionary also known as Kenneth or Kenny two or three other names, depending on where you were standing. He is considered one of the Twelve Apostles of Ireland.

Kilkenny was originally the name of the church and the surrounding area later took on the name. The story goes — and it is one of those tales of the time that has a lot of telling and re-telling, so it might not be the most completely accurate, but close nevertheless — that in 597, Cainnech led a Christian army here to wipe out the last of the Druids. This was one of the last parts of Ireland to be converted to Christianity.

A tour was full. A music tour had ceased operation. We were really just winging it tonight anyway.

We ate here this evening, a family-owned joint since 1904. There was a sign of live music, but no actual live music. What to do?

“Get drunk with us,” said the bartender, overhearing our conversation. That wasn’t really on the agenda.

We did eat there. Here was the Irish stew I ordered for dinner. And while there isn’t normally a lot of food on this site — because food photographs just aren’t as interesting as the photographer thinks — I just wanted to tell you how delicious Irish stew is:

Do these look like the faces of two people who just got engaged?

There. That’s better. Our friends are funny, and they’re always blaming one another, in jest, for whatever the most immediate transgression happens to be. It is amusing to sort out the real story. Usually I pick the person who says the least.

We went down the street a way to Kyteler’s Inn, to hear some music. This was the house of Dame Alice Kyteler, a member of a prominent local banking family. She was charged with witchcraft, heresy and suspected in poisoning a few of her husbands in 1323. She’s believed to be the subject of the earliest witchcraft accusations in Ireland. She skipped town, fleeing presumably to England, where she disappeared from history. One of her servants was not so lucky; she was flogged and burned at the stake in 1324.

Happier days today, though. I saw this sign and note it here only to point out that I’m going to look them up, tell them I’m back and demand my cut of the empire. Never mind that I’m not Irish.

We met some nice guys tonight. They were from the outlying areas and had come to town for a bachelor party. Here’s the most normal of the bunch.

This guy has a counterpart in every bar and pub in the world, I’d bet. In your personal space, flirting with the ladies, starting out funny stories that somehow lose their oomph midway through.

But he introduced us to all these guys, including this one, who seemed a bit out of place.

And this guy. He was the priest. He was also coordinating the night’s entertainment. That’s what we were told. We learned he wasn’t a priest, but the story is better that way. It allowed one of the other guys to say “Welcome to Ireland.”

And right about then a guy in a bikini showed up. Presumably the night’s entertainment. Thankfully the music was starting so …

I did not know there were Carnegie Libraries in other parts of the world. Also, I took this photograph at 9:30 at night. We still had an hour of daylight left.


16
Jun 13

Every day is a travel day

Our wonderful and restive cruise is over. We said goodbye to old friends and goodbye to new friends. We’d only just gotten to the point where you could relax and it was time to pack things up again. We zoned out on the beach, we ran, we swam, we ate and laughed. It was a great time.

So we woke up, had one last, hasty breakfast on board — this time overlooking exotic New Jersey — and then disembarked.

We hit the laundromat. All of those clothes had to be washed. And then repacked. We had lunch and then hustled out to the airport.

At JFK there is a sign just before the security checkpoint. It says something about how TSA does not endorse nor is sponsored by any product or organization you see in the security area. This makes no sense until you look into the tubs for your change and phones and (still!) your shoes:

tubs

The TSA remains the worst, in so many ways. My favorite example remains a story of someone I know who inadvertently took a bottle of water through security.

“Whose water is this? Whose water is this? WHOSE WATER IS THIS? Oh well … ”

At least they can unwind at Hampton.

We’re going to unwind on the plane. We’re flying all night. Tomorrow we’ll be in London.


15
Jun 13

Our last sea day

We’re on our way back to the States. Here’s the view from our veranda, look at all that deep blue:

BermudaOcean

There was a giant brunch buffet this morning to mark the end of the cruise. It was an embarrassing amount of food:

CelebritySummit

They had two chocolate fountains.

CelebritySummit

And ice sculptures everywhere.

CelebritySummit

The entertainment tonight was comedian Buzz Sutherland. He’s just been enjoying the cruise with his family and does his standup tonight. Sweet gig. And a great show. Check him out on YouTube.

BermudaOcean

There is a martini bar on board, notable for being an ice-covered bar. And, apparently, the bartenders are trick drink makers. I walked by just as a guy poured these seven drinks simultaneously out of a clutch of shakers.

I don’t know what the ship record is for this, but that guy was pretty proud of himself:

BermudaOcean

Finally, here’s the promised video of pianist Jordan Peterson. He’s playing tunes covering about a 50 year range, and he’s worth hearing:

Tomorrow we have to get off the ship.