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16
May 15

The Roman Baths

Still in Bath, at the historic feature that defines and named the town. The touring here is almost entirely indoors. You need more time than we were allowed, to be honest. And the design of the tour, which is 100 percent determined by the historical plumbing, is not conducive to the number of people they let inside at one time.

If you’re interested in the history of the Romans in Britannia, this is a great place to come, but do it during a slow period. The foot traffic was all but intolerable.

Nevertheless, there is plenty to see here. You first get a view of the famous bath from above. And you’re told to not drink, swim, dive, touch, lick, perspire in, think about or wink at the water. But you can go right up to it, later in your self-guided tour.

Best part of the tour:

There are statues of the Roman governors of the province of Britannia. Mixed among them are likenesses of Roman emperors with particular connections to Britain. I’d like you to meet them now.

This is Julius Caesar. He invaded Britain twice: in 55 and 54 BC. The first time it was late summer, and less than a full-scale move. It was unsuccessful, giving him no more than a beachhead toehold at Kent. During his second visit the Romans installed a king friendly to Rome, but there wasn’t a lot of territory conquered. There were between one and four million people in Britain at the time.

Here’s the emperor Claudius. The Roman conquest started under his reign, in 43 AD. Literature and monuments suggest he won with minimal bloodshed. The locals were already beaten.

That brings us to Vespasian, who fought for Claudius before, a few decades later, oversaw the Roman expansion in the modern British Isles.

Here’s Ostorius Scapula, a Roman general who governed Britain from 47 until his death five years later. He was more of a tactician than a politican, and is thought to be buried somewhere nearby in Wales, where much of his military campaigning took place.

Suetonius Paulinus came to power as governor in 58 and his first two years on the job were considered successful. He was the lead man for more than a few battles, perhaps the largest being when he stood with an army of 10,000 Romans against a mob of Britons estimated at almost a quarter-million strong. The Romans and their discipline won, and won big. Some 400 Romans were killed, compared to reports of almost 80,000 of the locals. It turned into a slaughter.

He was, perhaps, too good at his job as a military governor. The Romans took him out of the job, fearing that his fighting would lead to stronger and more bitter resistance.

Julius Agricola was given a military command in Britain, where his military career had also started. When it ended in 73, he was made patrician in Rome and appointed governor of Gallia Aquitania. In 77 he was tapped as consul and governor of Britannia and he completed the conquest of what is now Wales and northern England. He marched on the far northern territories of Scotland and established forts across much of the Lowlands. He went home in 85. He died eight years later at the age of 53.

Here’s Hadrian, emperor from 117 to 138. He rebuilt the Pantheon and constructed the Temple of Venus and Roma. Perhaps you’ve heard of Hadrian’s Wall, which marked the northern limit of Britannia. He visited in 122, after hearing of a revolt there in the previous years. but never saw that wall finished. He went off to fight some rebels in Africa and then visited his beloved Greece, then Asia and then Egypt and finally back to Rome in 133, ending the ultimate road trip. He never returned to Britain.

Which brings us to the last statue, of Constantine the Great. He was the Roman Emperor from 306 to 337 AD. As a younger man he fought north of Hadrian’s Wall. His dominion consisted of Britain, Gaul, and Spain. He therefore commanded one of the largest Roman armies, stationed along the important Rhine frontier. He founded Constantinople, of course, and also stopped Christian persecutions and legalized Christianity. In 325 he summoned the famous Council of Nicaea.

The Temple pediment is one of the highlights of the Bath tour, and it is one of only two truly classical temples from Roman Britain. An animation shows how the pediment would have looked in Roman times.

The pediment features the image of a fearsome head carved in Bath stone and it is thought to be the Gorgon’s Head which was a powerful symbol of the goddess Sulis Minerva.

Inside the temple you would have found the statue of the goddess Sulis Minerva. The gilt bronze head is one of the best known objects from Roman Britain. The head may well date from the first century AD. There are six layers of gilding. The first two use a technique known as fire gilding and the four later layers are applied as gold leaf. There is corrosion which has affected it in parts where it lay in the ground for over a thousand years. And you can also see a rectangular cut beneath the chin, thought to be a repair from a casting flaw.

The Bath from ground level. I just imagine Roman lifeguards yelling “No running on the deck!”

The engineering is impressive, still in operation and the tour lets you see some fine examples of Roman handiwork and ingenuity. There are plenty of video screens and dioramas trying to explain life in Roman Britannia. There are tin scrolls where people wrote out curses against those that wrong them. There are impressive coin displays, with currency covering a span of 1,700 years. The oldest coin is as far removed from the newest coin as we are. It is remarkable to consider in terms like that.

Here’s a 40-second video dose from inside the facility:

And, finally:


16
May 15

The Abbey Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul

We are in Bath.

This is the Abbey, and on this spot there has been a place of Christian worship, in one form or another, for more than a millennia. Three churches have been there, the first, in 757, an Anglo-Saxon monastery. Norman conquerors destroyed that one and a cathedral was started around 1090, but it was rubble a few hundred years later.

The first King of all England, King Edgar, was crowned here in 973. The monasteries here were closed in 1539, and in 1616 much of the current building was repaired, with new pinnacles and flying buttresses added inside and out in the 19th century. You can see the interior here.

At the top you can just make out the statue of Christ in glory. That one was hard to shoot. But this is the one just above the door, a likeness of King Henry VII. It was placed during a restoration around 1900:

These are the statues installed on either side of the main door. One is Peter and the other is Paul:

And I do enjoy this door:


15
May 15

A little light tourism

Here we are outside of our flat. The blue door is ours.

There’s a light on the timer in the hallway. You have to go to the third floor, and you must do so quickly. The hallway/stairwell light will turn off on you. The room is nice, one we found on Airbnb. We have a living room with a corner kitchen, a bedroom and a bath. Nice little place.

It turns out that a lady lives nearby who is a friend of my mother-in-law. Charming lady. We met here this evening for a walk in Regent’s Park. While we walked and talked I took some pictures.

And I came away with a mystery. What do you call an island that is inside an island?


15
May 15

Meeting the Daily Mirror

We had the privilege of meeting some of the folks at the DailyMirror today. I took notes.

The tabloid, a part of Trinity Mirror, had a circulation of just under 1 million last year, putting it third in the United Kingdom.

Aidan McGurran is a deputy managing editor at @DailyMirror. He says DM is making huge strides in digital, doubling audience in recent years. The Mirror, McGurran said, “occupies almost a unique place” in the British media landscape, “unashamedly proud of their pro-Labour” leaning.

McGurran is himself a local councillor, which is odd to American eyes. And he was disappointed, like all of Labour, in the general election. But the results puts the Mirror as an outside critic, which is probably more fun to be from their perspective. McGurran: “we’re about to see massive, massive cuts in welfare,” antithetical to Labour supporters. So they get to publish about that and take shots at the government.

“Show business, human interest and sports are enormously important … Our sports coverage is among the best and we take it really seriously,” he said.

McGurran says the Mirror’s circulation has posted a year-over-year decline of six to seven percent. He says that’s one of the best bad numbers in British media. (I haven’t seen all of the data.) The average age of the Daily Mirror newsprint audience is thought to be 54. The loyal, solid sale core set, there.

We also met Ben Rankin, the Daily Mirror’s online editor. He says his team is publishing about 500 stories per day.

Ben Rankin

“You have to get stories up very fast,” Rankin said. “There are some stories that we don’t do in the paper, but work online.”

That has to do with quality and the readership’s ethos. Basic principles of good journalism, quick writing, good headlines apply.

Rankin says there’s a regular balancing act of engaging content versus what can be delivered quickly. Their efforts have them at about a million uniques per month. (Aside: We were doing about that number at al.com when I left in 2008. They are at 5.7 million uniques per month earlier this year.) They’re looking at read-time and engagement. We’d call it stickiness.

Rankin offered the 75th anniversary of McDonald’s as an example. That snuck up on them, but the online team dreamed up content: old menus/prices, 75 things you didn’t know and commercials. (Including the spots were my first idea.) He said that McD’s feature made it into print, calling it a happy crossover between generational audiences.

“We can’t put a story up without a picture,” Rankin said, and it can’t always be the same boring clip art.

That followed directly into his list of things that “work well” for them online: “The macabre, plane crashes, conspiracy theories, ghosts.”

He says “works well” a lot.

Daily Mirror

Facebook, Rankin says, provides the Daily Mirror with 30 to 35 percent of their overall traffic. They now have five people on social media. No one was working in that area last year. The plan, he says, is to publish to Facebook every 15 minutes.

“Any more turns off your audience. Any less throws away an audience,” Rankin said.

One of the best parts of our conversation: “We have a need for stories to be interactive, engaging” and not just 10 paragraphs. So if you’re only a writer …

Daily Mirror is publishing ~100 vids/day, 10-20 they shoot. When we were hanging out with the online folks the videos were of a guy only just avoiding being hit by a subway train and of Edge falling off the stage at a U2 concert. Behind the online crew there is a large flatscreen showing realtime analytics from the site. They can tell, at a glance, what is working and what isn’t. Based on the way we talked they promoted things that were successful, and pushed down things that were struggling, largely on feel.

In their videos themselves, the goal is to show few talking heads. Video, they say, is the story. The plan, then, is a good one, show people in action.

The Daily Mirror newsroom is one of the nicest ones I’ve ever seen. Busy and quiet and bustling, all at the same time. I found their late adoption of social media and their late dedication of serious online work to be a bit odd, but part of that is cultural. Newspapers are shrinking in London and the UK, but there’s still a strong readership, too. My guess, without seeing a bunch of crosstabs, is that the British media and their audiences are on a different part of the curve than their American counterparts.


14
May 15

Today, we are behaving like tourists

We did the London Eye this morning. This was just before the rains came, but long after the clouds had moved in. You could still see some nice views, but, obviously, not the best day for it. After the ride we watched the 4D movie:

I think we did that in the wrong order, but it was a neat experience riding on the world’s fourth largest ferris wheel and “the world’s tallest cantilevered observation wheel.”

Their gift shop was underwhelming.

We took the hop-on hop-off bus tour. That’s a nice way to see a big city, or at least get an idea of what is where. We did this the last time we were in London, a clear summer day, and got great shots. Today they are a bit grey, but maybe that fits better:

Riding over the Tower Bridge is fun. Hanging a left at the Palace of Westminster is a bit surreal, indeed.

Should you find yourself in London, look up Fortnum and Mason and go for high tea:

It is a happy place:

Today we learned they keep bringing tea and scones and sandwiches for as long as you like. They didn’t even mind the selfie stick. Here we are with a few of The Yankee’s Study Abroad students:

Downstairs, some of the things that Fortnum and Mason sells. We got souvenirs for family:

Tomorrow, we’re going to meet some of the local media. Should be a lot of fun!