Wednesday


20
Jul 11

Oregon pictures, Day One

Just half an hour outside of downtown Portland you’ll find the 611-foot-tall Multnomah Falls:

MultnomahFalls

This is the second part of the two-stage falls. Rainwater, an underground spring and snow melt feed the falls through all four seasons. This is the tallest waterfall in Oregon:

MultnomahFalls

Here’s the top of the falls, and part of that long, first drop, which measures 542 feet. We walked 1.25 miles to get to the top:

MultnomahFalls

Also, there’s a tunnel carved out of a nearby hill:

MultnomahFalls

This is another waterfall that stems from the same sources. Both are restive places, but this one, much smaller, gets a lot less traffic:

Falls

We ate dinner here, just sandwiches because everything was outrageously expensive. They offered a macaroni and cheese — like Mom used to make — for $15. I don’t know about your mom, but that dish didn’t set mine back like that. The cheese must be fresh from France, and flown in first class on silken made oriental rugs.

Our waiter, who was a nice guy willing to chat since we caught them at an off time, was talking up their barbecue night to his one other customer. The Yankee said, “Yeah, bring that over. Let’s try that.”

We’ve turned her into a proper barbecue snob. I’m so proud:

TippyCanoe

We didn’t eat here, but I had to stop and take a picture of the sign:

Sign

The locals needed a road paralleling the Columbia River in the mid-19th century. Sam Hill was a railroad attorney and a big fan of good roads. In 1913 he gathered people of means, met right here at Chanticleer Point and outlined his plan for a scenic highway. The setting worked. They were conducting surveys in a matter of weeks. They called it the “king of roads” in the 1920s. But most people were paying attention to what they saw outside their windows:

ChanticleerPoint

The Yankee enjoys the Columbia River:

Yankee

Back to Multnomah — the above pictures were from my phone. These are from my camera. This is the top of the falls once again:

MultnomahFalls

Being on the top of a big waterfall, making a big long walk up a tall hill, seeing a wide river and ancient trees, they all make you realize the size of beauty and the smallness of the viewer. And so you take a look at the macros:

Flowers

This is the stream supplying the falls. This goes around one bend and then into a little pool and down the cliff face. I’m not sure I’m supposed to be here:

MultnomahFalls

In that pedestrian tunnel, where The Yankee did her cartwheels.

Cartwheel

At that second, smaller waterfall. This is where I decided to shoot a lot of video of this trip. I’ll show some of that at the conclusion of our adventures.

Falls


20
Jul 11

Welcome to Oregon

Flowers

We’ve been here long enough to get off the plane, get our rental car and check into our hotel.

The guy at Hertz called me broke and the girl at the hotel called me old.

But the scenery is beautiful! More, in a bit, from our first adventure of the trip.


20
Jul 11

Look up in the air!

MtHood

Spent a few hours in the plane, departing from Atlanta and arriving in Portland. This is Mt. Hood, just before we touched down.

We lost three time zones and about 30 degrees on this flight.

No one is complaining about this last part.


13
Jul 11

Dinner with friends

And now for your amusing miscommunication of the day: “Come over have dinner at Our Place.”

The thing you don’t hear in the conversation are the capital letters. Our Place is not “We’re making a casserole,” but rather, “There is a nice little restaurant nearby that we like to frequent and we would enjoy your company. The name of the establishment is Our Place.”

So we drive to Wetumpka, in the original Creek it meant Rumbling Waters because the river roared over waterfalls. Now it is damned. When the Creek were moved west, they named a town in Oklahoma Wetumka. Wetumka is even smaller than Wetumpka. I learned this on Wikipedia, which may be wrong, because we discussed this evening the very idea of falsifying information on Wikipedia. But let’s just go with it. Did you know there’s a full-sized replica of Olympia’s Temple of Hera? Did you know Wetumpka was once compared to Chicago and no one laughed?

Wetumpka has about 5,000 people in it today, but they’re still trying. They also lost out on being the state capital because a hotel in nearby Montgomery hired a fancy French chef. And in the middle of the 19th century that won votes.

Anyway. Our Place is a nice little joint. It gets four stars on Urban Spoon, five stars on Yahoo, four on Trip Advisor and three stars on Yelp.

I was all set to give the Yelpers grief over their average rating — why so low? — and just noticed that only one person has reviewed it. Don’t make a special trip, says Jesse the Doberman. Jesse’s profile lists Birmingham as home. If they drove down just for Our Place I see the point. For a nice quiet place, though, it is delightful.

Turns out it was a car shop back in the 1930s or so. After years of cars and, I’m guessing, little of anything else, someone bought it with the idea of making it a music-themed restaurant. This was, we were told, poorly done from the start and the Our Place people stepped in and reaped the benefits. They serve a quasi-New Orleans menu and all the plates were enjoyable. I had the Shrimp Dianne. Got a plate full of pasta and shrimp and veggies and cheese. You cannot go wrong with this formulation.

(If I’d known Our Place wasn’t our place, though, I would have worn something nicer than jeans. Sorry, guys.)

Ahh. I found some incorrect information on Wetumpka’s Wikipedia page. I know who to blame.


6
Jul 11

Another wall broken

We often have this conversation at night:

Me: Do you want to ride tomorrow?

The Yankee: Yes.

Me: How far do you want to go?

The Yankee: X miles.

Me: Where do you want to go.

We had this conversation last night, in fact. This morning she said “I want to go here and there, hill and dale and so on.”

She did not, but you don’t care about the street names. What you do care about is when she said ” … and then come back here to fuel up.”

Which, I’ve decided today, is the meanest thing she’s ever said.

See, I’d figured I’d do my 30 miles — because I am at a place where doing less than 15 is a joke, doing 20 barely seems an effort, but 30 is time well spent AND I can still function like a human being for the rest of the day. I’d do my 30 and then come home, rest, hydrate, shower, you know, that stuff. And then later this evening I could mow the lawn.

I am aided in this because, being from the north, the Deep South summer wipes her out. She decided earlier this week she can ride in humidity — it was odd hearing her admit that — but it is the sun that truly hurts. And, if you think about country roads, or even urban areas, rare is the spot where you can be in a lot of shade. July. Deep South. And so on.

So she starts out, and then I play catch up. I pass her. I get home and have a refreshing beverage and think “I’m done. She’ll get home and by then it will be serious July and no longer the early morning and that’ll be the day’s ride.”

But no.

She decides to go back out. And I’m stubborn, so I decide to go back out. She gets a head start. I catch her, and so on. She has a flat tire. I help with that. Turning right at the top of this hill — which I’ve climbed twice, because I had to go back for the tire — means going home. Turning left means we continue our pre-existing route. She turns left, figuring that, having done 45 miles, she’s pressing on.

There’s an expression we’ve learned in long duration exertion called bonking. It is defined as “a condition caused by the depletion of glycogen stores in the liver and muscles, which manifests itself by sudden fatigue and loss of energy.”

I think I had several bonks today.

But we rode 60 miles. SIXTY.

And finally we made it home. Now we’re not doing anything else for the rest of the day that requires coordinated muscle effort, because, really.

She made a delicious dinner. We had a late, large lunch. (Because we’d burned something like 4,000 calories pedaling around town.) And then we dove into Morgan Murphy’s Off the Eaten Path, which is a ringing endorsement for dives and out of the way places across the South (and, for some reason, Delaware and Maryland).

The Yankee’s mother gave us this book. We’ve been looking forward to trying most everything in it. Over the weekend we put sticky notes on each page marking a recipe we’d like to try. Basically we now have a book with sticky notes on most every page. That was a useful exercise.

Cookbook

Tonight we had chicken tortilla soup from Henry’s Puffy Tacos, in San Antonio, Texas. Delicious. Want the recipe?